Emerald Lake of Mount Timpanogos

Emerald Lake is a small lake that sits approximately 10,350 feet elevation next to the huge prominence of Mount Timpanogos' main summit.  It is fed mainly by a dwindling glacier along the north slope of the summit ridge that separates the main and south summits.  A moraine basically bisects the lake – which may appear to be a perfect spot for spending the night, yet wilderness regulations prohibit camping within 200 feet of the shoreline.  Though climbing the glacier provides a shorter route to the main summit than the Timpooneke route, it is not recommended without the use of crampons and an ice axe – along with the skill of using them.  Not far from the northwest shore of Emerald Lake is a shelter that was constructed in 1960 for the masses of people that used to hike Mount Timpanogos.  Since this practice has now ceased and the area was designated a wilderness, the shelter sees much less use today.  It still, however, provides better protection from storms and the elements than the metal hut at the main summit does.  Be prepared for sudden changes in weather and keep in mind that temperatures at the lake and summits are often much cooler than at the trailheads.  This post describes the Aspen Grove Trail, or eastern route up Mount Timpanogos.

To reach the Aspen Grove trailhead from I-15, take the Orem 800 North exit (Exit 272) and turn east along 800 North (SR 52) to the Provo River (about 3.7 miles).  Take the left ramp onto U.S. Highway 189 towards Provo Canyon (northeast) and continue another 6.9 miles to the SR 92 turnoff just past the Provo Canyon Tunnels.  Turn left (northwest) onto SR 92 and continue approximately 4.8 miles, where you will pass the Sundance Mountain Resort.  The road to the parking area is just past the fee station on the left (south) next to the Theater-in-the-Pines Campground in Aspen Grove.  Again, this area can get quite congested with vehicles, especially on weekends – so plan accordingly.  Be sure to pay any associated day use fees to avoid fines and possible vehicle impounding.

The main summit of Mount
Timpanogos along the
Aspen Grove Trail

The small glacier on Mount
Timpanogos that feeds
into Emerald Lake

Beginning near the northwest corner of the parking area, the trail makes a gradual climb near the bottom of the canyon for about 0.9 miles before reaching the switchbacks to Primrose Cirque.  Depending on seasonal runoff, it's not uncommon to see small waterfalls cascading over the cliff bands in this area.  At just over 2.0 miles, the trail makes a general southwest traverse across the upper part of the cirque to more switchbacks of shorter length that seem endless.  Eventually the terrain levels out into a basin with small lakes at approximately 4.1 miles – where wildflowers often blanket the landscape during the late summer season.  Another 0.9 miles brings you to Emerald Lake and the shelter nearby.  Though in a wilderness area, the shelter is a historic structure that should be preserved for protection on the upper part of the mountain.  For a non-technical approach to the main Timpanogos summit, continue westward along the trail – maybe a third of a mile past the shelter to a junction on the north-facing slope.  The trail on the left (south) is a shortcut to the ridge saddle versus taking the trail on the right (north) that connects with the Timpooneke Trail.  Snow, however, often blocks this shortcut route well into the summer months, which may necessitate taking the longer route for a safe ascent to the saddle.  It's about one mile from the Emerald Lake shelter to the saddle using this north face shortcut route.  A lesser visited summit that offers spectacular views of the landscape below is Roberts Horn, which was named after the late Eugene L. Roberts – often nicknamed "Timp" Roberts.  While there is no clearly established trail to this summit, the easiest approach is along the southwest ridge for about a half-mile just past the shelter.  Distance from the Aspen Grove trailhead to Emerald Lake is approximately 5.0 miles one-way with an elevation gain of about 3,450 feet.  To the 11,749-foot main summit of Mount Timpanogos; the distance is around 6.9 miles one-way via the non-technical route with an elevation gain of approximately 4,850 feet.

The Emerald Lake shelter provides
protection and rest for hikers

Mountain goats hug the rocky slopes
on the ridges of Mount Timpanogos

Mount Timpanogos

The Mount Timpanogos area is one of the more popular attractions along the Wasatch Front with Timpanogos Cave up American Fork Canyon and the Sundance Mountain Resort up Provo Canyon.  Though not the highest point in the Wasatch Range, Mount Timpanogos (referred to by many locals as simply "Timp") stands as a prominent landmark against the Utah Valley and beyond.  The name comes from the Timpanogos Tribe who were an indigenous people of Shoshone descent that lived in the area before the coming of the Mormon Pioneers.  Examining the outline of the mountain reveals the legendary character of a sleeping princess – lying on her back with her long hair flowing downward and knees bent upward.  At one time there used to be an annual "Timp Hike," which would literally draw thousands of people onto the mountain slopes in one day!  This obviously resulted in adverse effects to the delicate ecosystem – consequently, it was discontinued in 1970.  By 1984 the area was officially designated a wilderness area to protect the environment.  While the route to the summit of Mount Timpanogos is not particularly difficult, it is a long hike that requires a full day and strong perseverance.  Bring plenty of water along with protection from the sun as the upper parts of the trail extend above the timberline and have no real water sources.  This post describes the Timpooneke Trail, or northern route to Mount Timpanogos, which provides the least amount of elevation gain to the summits.

To reach the Timpooneke trailhead from I-15 coming from the north, take the Timpanogos Highway exit (Exit 284) and turn left (east) onto SR 92 to the mouth of American Fork Canyon (about 7.5 miles).  If coming from the south along I-15, take the Pleasant Grove Boulevard exit (Exit 275) and turn right (northeast) onto Pleasant Grove Boulevard.  At the next traffic signal turn left (northwest) onto 2000 West, which turns into North County Boulevard to the Mount Timpanogos LDS Temple.  Continue following this road northward to 11000 North (SR 92) and make a right (east) turn towards the mountains (about 6.0 miles from Exit 275).  The previous time I entered American Fork Canyon, the entry fee was $6.00 per vehicle for a one-to-three day pass, unless you have an "America the Beautiful" Parks Pass.  Proceed up the canyon past the Timpanogos Cave Visitor Center (about 2.25 miles further) and stay right (east) along SR 92 to about 8.1 miles beyond the entrance station.  Turn right (northwest) onto the Timpooneke road and drive approximately one quarter-mile to the parking area on the left (south) at the trailhead.  This area can become quite congested with vehicles, especially on weekends – so plan accordingly.

Scout Falls near the lower
part of the Timpooneke trail

Approaching Timpanogos Basin
with main peak in the background

The trail begins at the informational signs, where there is also a trail registry for registering your names.  It never hurts to take a few moments and absorb the information on these signs as it may save you some trouble down the road.  Upon entering the Mount Timpanogos Wilderness Area a little ways past the signs, the trail continues to the edge of a large meadow where it begins to ascend around the west side.  At around 1.4 miles along the trail at the end of the first full switchback is a sign that indicates the access to Scout Falls.  This is a nice spot for a rest, and depending on the season there can be huge amounts of water flowing over the edge – creating a thunderous roar.  Back on the main route above Scout Falls, the trail enters a basin area and eventually curves northward for about one-half mile before turning southward again across talus slopes.  Being on northerly and easterly facing slopes, snow often remains in this area well into the summer months.  When hiking across any snowfield, be cautious not to slip and fall into possible hidden voids that may exist beneath the surface.  At approximately 4.8 miles along the trail, the Timpanogos Basin is reached as you transition from pine forests to alpine tundra.  Elevations in this basin area can range anywhere from 10,000 to 10,600 feet.  During the 1950s an Air Force B-25 bomber crashed northwest of Timpanogos Basin just below the Middle Summit – killing everyone on board.  Parts of the wreckage can still be found by following the right (northwest) fork of the trail at the "Toilet" sign for about 0.75 miles along the terrace.  Since the accident, the Middle Summit of Mount Timpanogos is often referred to as "Bomber Peak."

One of two engines from a B-25 bomber
that crashed on Mount Timpanogos

The main peak of Mount Timpanogos
as viewed from the ridge saddle

About 500 feet along the left (southwest) fork of the trail from the "Toilet" sign is another junction that determines the route to the summits, or to Emerald Lake.  Take the right (northwest) fork towards the summits, which ascends up the ridge to the west approximately 1.5 miles further to reach the saddle.  Once at the ridge saddle, while most hikers elect to go on to the main summit, you can also hike to the other summits as well along the summit ridge.  Keep in mind, however, that there are no clearly established trails to the other summits – and that a greater amount of time and effort will be required to reach them.  At the main summit of Mount Timpanogos is a metal hut that allows some protection from the elements while taking in the panoramic views below.  Do not take shelter in this hut during a thunderstorm though – as it becomes a prime attraction for lightning.  Distance from the trailhead to the 11,749-foot main summit of Mount Timpanogos is approximately 7.2 miles one-way with an elevation gain of about 4,400 feet.

The metal hut at the main
summit of Mount Timpanogos

The Hamongog Area

About a half-mile west of the Dry Creek Canyon trailhead is the Schoolhouse Springs trailhead, which leads through an area known as the Hamongogs.  A hamongog is a Biblical term that refers to a valley where the Army of Gog and Magog was buried (see Ezekiel 39:11-15).  In the case of this mountain trail, it is more of a flat open meadow area surrounded by denser forested areas.  Due to recent development in the area, greater efforts have been necessary to maintain public access to the Lone Peak Wilderness Area, which begins at the wilderness sign at the First Hamongog.  Each year during the Alpine Days events in August, there is supposedly a community hike to Lake Hardy that begins at the Schoolhouse Springs trailhead at around 5:30am.  The year I attempted to go on this hike with them, however, the event was canceled, and I was basically left on my own to do the hike.  Since this hike is located on a south-facing slope, it is important to bring lots of drinking water and take this hike during the cooler times of the day.  The autumn season is a particularly delightful time to hike the Hamongog area when temperatures are more moderate and the leaves are changing color.

Reaching the Schoolhouse Springs trailhead is very similar to reaching the trailhead for Dry Creek Canyon.  Coming from the west along SR 92, turn left (north) onto 5300 West, which becomes Main Street going into the town of Alpine.  Continue straight through the traffic circle along Main Street and turn right (east) at 200 North.  Turn left (north) again onto Grove Street (200 East) and follow it approximately 1.6 miles to Alpine Cove Drive.  Now turn left (northward) onto Alpine Cove Drive and then left (northward) again onto Aspen Drive.  Continue following the graded dirt road to the gate and parking area near the Lehi water tanks.  If coming from the east along SR 92, turn right (north) onto 4800 West, which curves and turns into Canyon Crest Road to the traffic circle (about 1.25 miles from SR 92).  At the traffic circle, turn right (north) onto Main Street and follow the remaining previous directions to reach the trailhead.

Directional sign in the First Hamongog
area just beyond the wilderness sign

View of the Second Hamongog
with Big Horn Peak in the background

From the water tanks to the First Hamongog, the trail is basically an old graded road that switchbacks up the mountainside – a 1,500-foot elevation gain in about 1.8 miles.  Much of this area is private property; so it's important to stay on the established route as much as possible.  Upon reaching the First Hamongog and continuing into the wilderness area, the trail splits – the left (west) fork leads to the Second Hamongog while the right (east) fork leads to the Dry Creek Canyon area.  Taking the left fork, the trail ascends approximately 1,100 feet for about 1.4 miles to reach the 8,130-foot elevation of the Second Hamongog meadow.  Here you are surrounded by pine trees and the spectacular backdrop of the Draper Ridge to the north.  This is a good stopping point for those lacking the strength to hike further and/or for spending the night.  The route to Lake Hardy continues by taking the right (east) fork in the Second Hamongog meadow, which ascends up the drainage towards the ridgeline to Big Horn Peak.  As the vegetation becomes sparser with increasing altitude, cairns mark the path to take.  The last time I hiked this trail, I made it to a point that I refer to as "Ridge Viewpoint," which offers great views of the surrounding landscape.  Years earlier, I hiked to the south summit of Lone Peak from the Second Hamongog with my hiking partner, Joe.  We took the left (north) fork of the trail towards Lone Rock for a ways and then veered more towards the north up a very steep drainage.  Though this may be considered the shortest hiking distance to the summit of Lone Peak, it is certainly the steepest as well – which is quite brutal on your legs and feet.  Total distance from the Schoolhouse Springs trailhead to the Second Hamongog is about 3.2 miles one-way with an elevation gain of 2,600 feet.  To the south summit of Lone Peak the distance is approximately 4.8 miles one-way with an elevation gain of around 5,700 feet.

View of Box Elder Peak from the Ridge
Viewpoint along the Lake Hardy Trail

View looking northwest at the north summit
of Lone Peak – Photo credit: WordPress

Horsetail Falls

Tucked in the northern reaches of Utah Valley near the town of Alpine, Utah is a waterfall known as Horsetail Falls.  Though not as popular as other nearby waterfalls, Horsetail Falls has a beauty of its own that is well worth hiking to see.  From a fairly narrow channel at the top, the water spreads out as it cascades onto the rocks below.  The amount of water varies depending on seasonal runoff and the time of year visited, yet each season provides its own special type of beauty.  There are several stream crossings along the trail that can cause a little apprehension during heavy runoff, but most have narrow log bridges to cross on.  At the end of Dry Creek Canyon sits the Pfeifferhorn, which is a pyramid-shaped peak that forms part of the Salt Lake-Utah County line.  Continuing up the Dry Creek Trail beyond Horsetail Falls eventually takes you to the north saddle of Box Elder Peak.

To reach the trailhead for Dry Creek Canyon along I-15 coming from the north, take the Timpanogos Highway exit (Exit 284) and turn left (east) onto SR 92.  Follow this route for approximately 5.6 miles and turn left (north) onto 5300 West, which becomes Main Street going into the town of Alpine.  Continue straight through the traffic circle along Main Street and turn right (east) at 200 North.  Turn left (north) again on Grove Drive (200 East) and follow it the remaining distance to the trailhead (about 2.5 miles).  At the junction with Oakridge Drive, turn right (southeast) briefly to cross Dry Creek before continuing northward again past the rodeo grounds to the parking area.  If coming from the south along I-15, take the Pleasant Grove Boulevard exit (Exit 275) and turn right (northeast) onto Pleasant Grove Boulevard.  Turn left (northwest) at the next traffic signal onto 2000 West, which turns into North County Boulevard to the Mount Timpanogos LDS Temple.  Continue following this road northward, which eventually curves and turns into Canyon Crest Road to the traffic circle (about 7.3 miles from Exit 275).  At the traffic circle, turn right (north) onto Main Street and follow the remaining previous directions to reach the trailhead.

Horsetail Falls (white area) as seen
from a lower viewing point near trail

Hiker crosses one of several
narrow log bridges along the trail

Be prepared for large crowds during weekends and holidays that can fill the parking lot to capacity.  The well-marked trail begins at the east edge of the parking lot and passes an informational board as it curves northward, then northeastward.  Much of the first part of the trail is open with less shade, but it soon narrows upon entering the more forested areas towards the canyon.  There are some fairly steep portions along the way along with a few level areas for resting and catching your breath.  At around 1.2 miles from the trailhead, you reach a grassy meadow area know as Shingle Mill Flat, which provides a great place to camp and observe wildlife.  Since this is part of the Lone Peak Wilderness Area, no camping is allowed within 200 feet of any water sources, and of course, "Leave No Trace" camping techniques apply at all times.  Beyond the meadow, the trail continues up the canyon with frequent paths forking off to the left towards Dry Creek.  A good lower viewing point of the waterfall lies just over a half-mile past the meadow at around 7,000 feet elevation.  Upon reaching the Deer Creek-Dry Creek directional sign, go to the left (northward) to reach the top of the waterfall.  At this point, various paths with moderate exposure lead to different spots for viewing the waterfall.  Extreme caution must be exercised – particularly around the waterfall – to avoid slips and falls on wet surfaces.  Distance from the trailhead to the top of Horsetail Falls (7,250 feet) is approximately 2.0 miles one-way with an elevation gain of about 1,600 feet.

Deer Creek-Dry Creek directional
sign not far from Horsetail Falls

Close-up view of Horsetail Falls