Ensign Peak

A short hike along with a great view of the valley below is had with Ensign Peak, which is located on the mountain north of the Utah State Capitol Building in Salt Lake City.  This peak has great historical significance to the early settlers of the area.  Two days after the arrival of the Mormon pioneers to the Salt Lake Valley, President Brigham Young and eight others hiked to the summit of a nearby peak to survey the landscape below.  President Young remarked that it "was a proper place to raise an ensign to the nations," and so it was named Ensign Peak – symbolic to the biblical prophesy found in Isaiah 11:12.

On July 26, 1996, LDS Church President Gordon B. Hinckley dedicated the Ensign Peak Nature Park which included Ensign Peak and an additional 66 acres surrounding it.  It just so happened that my daughters and I decided to hike to Ensign Peak on this very day.  Dressed in hiking clothes and boots, we stumbled across a large stretch of well-manicured lawn next to a church, which had neatly aligned rows of chairs facing a large wooden stand with more chairs on it.  It was when I looked at the printed program ready to be handed out that I discovered the dedicatory service about to happen, and the individuals that would be participating in it.  Soon we noticed police motorcades cruising around the neighboring streets for security.  As it turned out, the entire First Presidency of the LDS Church and the Governor of Utah attended and participated in this event.  Following the service, my daughters and I still hiked to the summit of Ensign Peak – awestruck by the event we just witnessed.

The trailhead is accessed by driving northward on State Street in downtown Salt Lake City past the Utah State Capitol Building.  On the right (east) side of the capitol building, turn left (north) onto East Capitol Boulevard and drive through the residential area until you reach North Sandrun Drive (940 North).  Turn left (west) on this road and drive for about one block, where you will fork to the right (north) behind the LDS meetinghouse.  Drive about another half-block further where you will see the well-marked Ensign Peak Nature Park off to the right (north).  The trail ascends up a shallow ravine to a ridge overlooking the Great Salt Lake.  From this point, veer to the left (south) to reach the 5,414-foot summit of Ensign Peak.  There are plenty of resting spots along the way.  One-way distance from the nature park to the summit is about a 1/2 mile with an approximate elevation gain of 400 feet.

Daughters pose at monument
at summit of Ensign Peak

Marker on Ensign Peak monument





 



View of Salt Lake City from Ensign Peak



Thurston Peak (Francis)

Until the early 1990’s, Thurston Peak was marked as “Francis” on the topographic maps – so called from the USGS survey monument located on its summit.  The new name comes from Thomas J. Thurston, who was an early pioneer that settled in the Centerville area.  At 9,706 feet elevation, Thurston Peak is the highest point along the Farmington Ridge, which separates Davis and Morgan Counties in Utah.  My first hike to this peak was along the easiest route – approximately 3.5 miles north along the summit ridge from Francis Peak.  Francis Peak is easily identified by the two white domes of the FAA radar facility on top.  A well maintained dirt road climbs up Farmington Canyon to this facility, and most vehicles can travel this road in dry conditions all the way to the top without much difficulty.  Views of Morgan Valley to the east and the Great Salt Lake to the west are quite spectacular.  Be prepared to hear the occasional roar of jets flying overhead from nearby Hill Air Force Base, which can also be seen below.  A more challenging climb to Thurston Peak (involving a gain of approximately 4,500 feet) can be done from the Adams Canyon area on the west side.  The trailhead to Adams Canyon can be reached by turning east off of Mountain Road (U.S. 89) at approximately 700 North in Layton (1/4 mile north of Oakhills Drive).  This trail can be tricky in a few areas up to the 40-foot waterfall, and beyond it’s more of a “blaze your own way” setup.  Near the top of Adams Canyon, head for the point to the left (north) of the canyon.  Keep an eye out for rattlesnakes as they seem to frequent the western slopes of the mountain.  My hiking partner, Joe, and I came across two rattlesnakes in different areas while hiking this particular hike.

Monument honoring Thomas J. Thurston at the summit

of Thurston Peak – Photo credit: Eric Willhite

Three Outdoor Guidelines

Some people may ask: “What’s so special about hiking and exploring the countryside?”  With this, I usually reply that there’s a special feeling that comes from reaching the summit of a mountain and viewing the landscape below.  Hiking is a noncompetitive sport that provides great exercise and allows you the chance to momentarily get away from it all.  Before I go very far with posting hikes and treks I’ve been on, I would like to share a few wise guidelines I use whenever I venture outdoors.  Some of these guidelines I have learned from my own “trial and error” experiences.

1.      Go Prepared.  Wear the proper kind of clothing.  I usually wear sturdy hiking boots that extend over the ankles, long pants, and a long-sleeved shirt.  Experience has taught me that hiking poles are wise items to take.  I also wear a full-brimmed hat to protect my face and neck from too much sun.  Sun screen lotion is also useful, particularly when hiking across snowfields or near large bodies of water.  Bug repellent is a wise thing to carry with you, or you can carry a couple of fresh dryer fabric softener sheets, which are known to ward off bugs.  A small first-aid kit is a “must” to have along that includes bandages, antiseptic solution, aspirin, gauze, medical tape, and so forth.  Packing a snake bite kit is also wise along with a small signal mirror in the event you become stranded.  Additional items include a pocketknife, a lighter for starting a fire, a working flashlight with fresh batteries, a raincoat or waterproof poncho, a thermal blanket, a map of the area going to, compass, and a GPS (global positioning system) unit if possible.  Know how to use the GPS.  Always bring plenty of water to keep yourself hydrated.  A little too much water is always better than not enough, even though the weight may be a little cumbersome.  Quick energy trail mix snacks that contain some salt are good for replenishing the body’s electrolytes.  On extended hikes, I always pack a couple of sandwiches that won’t spoil quickly and some fruit.

2.      Exercise Wise Judgment.  This includes pre-hike planning as well as decisions made on the hike itself.  If venturing into a particular area for the first time, do your homework!  Consult guide books, maps, and other hikers’ accounts of the area to gain a better understanding of what you might be up against.  When going on the outing, it never hurts to take a copy of this information with you.  Another item to pay close attention to is the local weather conditions.  More than once, I have been chased off high mountain ridges by thunder and lightning storms.  A day that starts out clear and sunny in the morning may become cloudy and stormy by afternoon.  Pay attention to cloud build-up as you hike and listen to the weather forecast before you hike.  I also tend to avoid excessive heat as much as possible.  If it’s going to be a hot day I will generally hike at higher altitudes where the air is cooler.  Starting hikes early in the morning during the coolest part of the day is another way to avoid the heat at lower altitudes.  Use extreme caution when traversing areas of steep terrain and exposure.  If you fear heights, don’t venture into these areas.  Know your body’s limits and don’t exceed them.  While this may be difficult when you’re close to reaching a desired point, it could spell the difference between success and disaster.  Also, keep an eye on the time and the amount of daylight you have left in the day.  Most hiking injuries tend to occur during the descent from a mountain versus the ascent.  A couple of factors play into this: 1st – Decreased strength from ascending the mountain and 2nd – Less stability from the heels of your feet, increasing the chance for slips and falls.  Ed Viesturs, a well-known mountaineer, has stated: "Getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory."

3.      Share Your Itinerary with Someone Else.  It’s always wise to let someone else know where you are going in the event trouble develops.  If possible, leave them with a copy of a map with your planned route plotted on it.  You should also indicate your estimated time of return to the responsible person.  Though service may not be available in some areas, it’s always wise to carry a cell phone with you.  Generally, you can receive service from the summit of a mountain or along the top of a ridgeline.  Some trailheads have registries that you can put your name on – alerting authorities that you’re in the area.  Be sure to sign out when you leave if there is space to do so.  On less-popular hikes it is always wise to take another person with you.  This is one area that I need to do better at.  Most often my reasoning for going alone is due to the unavailability of people to go with me, or fear that I will burden them because they are stronger at hiking than I am.  There have been a few remote hikes that I’ve been on alone where I never saw another living human soul – hikes that I later realized I shouldn’t have gone on alone.  So far, I’ve been lucky that nothing serious has happened to me.  Even on the more popular hikes, it never hurts to take someone else along with you.

Hidden Valley

For those desiring a secluded place a short distance away from Ogden, Hidden Valley is a great place to go.  Basically, it’s a small hanging valley situated between Ogden and Taylor Canyons northwest of Mount Ogden Peak.  The autumn season is a particularly enjoyable time to go when the leaves are changing color.  The trail begins at the top of 22nd Street near the large covered reservoir area, which is actually part of the Indian Trail.  Perhaps one-third of a mile from the trailhead, the trail to Hidden Valley forks to the right (south) at coordinates 41.23258° North 111.92161° West (NAD-27).  I list this GPS reading because this fork is very difficult to locate with lots of false trails.  I just happened to discover it when I reached a person standing at the junction point – telling me this was it.  It’s about 1.5 miles one-way to the Hidden Valley pass area at approximately 6,750 feet elevation, which allows a great view into Taylor Canyon.  Total elevation gain is about 1,900 feet.

View of Hidden Valley from Ogden –
Photo credit: Jim Olsen

Lewis Peak near Ogden

The area between the North Ogden Divide and Ogden Canyon is a forested area with lower peaks when compared with the surrounding area.  While some may regard Lewis Peak as the highest point in this area at 8,031 feet elevation, there’s actually an unnamed mound to the northeast that reaches 8,136 feet.  I must confess that my first attempt on the Southern Skyline Trail from North Ogden Divide was by motorcycle, but as I recall, I was having engine trouble and had to turn back.  The best way to hike this trail is to use two vehicles – each parked at opposite ends of the trail.  Total distance is about 13 miles from the North Ogden Divide to the Pineview Reservoir Marina near Huntsville.  A more aggressive climb to Lewis Peak is up Jumpoff Canyon starting at about 550 North Harrison Boulevard in Ogden.  From here you climb up the canyon past the impressive cliffs flanking the northeast part of Ogden, and then scramble up the peak to your left on the north side.

View looking west with Lewis Peak to the right (north)
of Jumpoff Canyon – Photo credit: Wasatchvoyage

Ben Lomond & Willard Peaks

The most famous mountain in the Ogden area is Ben Lomond Peak, which lies north of the city.  It aligns almost perfectly with the north-south direction of Washington Boulevard in Ogden.  Named after Ben Lomond in the Scottish Highlands, it is improper to refer to it as “Mount Ben Lomond” because “Ben” means “Mount” in Scotland.  The most popular access to this mountain begins at the North Ogden Divide Trailhead at just under 6,200 feet elevation.

Heading north across the highway from the large parking lot, the first 2.4 miles of the trail go through numerous switchbacks until it crests the ridge at about 7,400 feet.  It then basically parallels the east side of the ridge for another 1.5 miles until it switchbacks to the west side before Chilly Peak.  This is typically the most strenuous part of the hike – the rest is relatively easy until the final summit beyond the east saddle, which is another 1,000 feet higher.  While motorcycles are allowed on the trail certain times of the year, I highly discourage taking them and "cheating" your way to the top of the mountain.  One of the main purposes of hiking is for people to get away from city life – and to enjoy the peace and tranquility of Mother Nature.  Upon reaching the summit of Ben Lomond, you are rewarded with a commanding view of Ogden and points south.  Northwest of Ben Lomond along the summit ridge just over one mile lies the Willard Peak summit at 9,764 feet elevation.  Though not readily apparent from the valley floor, the summit of Willard Peak sits about 50 feet higher than that of Ben Lomond.  Both summits offer excellent views of the valley below.  Distance from the North Ogden Divide to Ben Lomond Peak is approximately 7.9 miles one-way, so plan for a full day of hiking and be aware of changing weather conditions.

View of Ben Lomond Peak from the east
ridge trail to the North Ogden Divide

View looking south over Ogden City
behind a rock outcrop along the east ridge

Retreat Camp

Ever had a secluded place where you sometimes went to be by yourself – just to meditate and get away from it all?  Retreat Camp was that place for me.  I came across this spot – clad with scrub oak and hidden from direct view of the city by a knoll – while I was hiking the west slope of Strongs Peak.  Located approximately one mile east of my Ogden home, reaching this spot involved a climb of about 1,260 feet to reach an elevation that I calculated to be about 6,125 feet.  According to more recent GPS readings, it is located at 41.185° North 111.92189° West (NAD-27).  Though I never actually slept a night here, I often packed a lunch and hiked to this spot to enjoy the surroundings of nature.  It wasn’t uncommon to see deer feeding in a more wooded area just to the north of this secluded spot.  During the winter months, hiking to Retreat Camp would sometimes take me above the city smog during a temperature inversion.  Retreat Camp is a place you won’t see published on local topographic maps of the area – it exists only on the mental map of my brain – yet I share it as a quiet place I used to go while growing up in Ogden.

Hiking to Retreat Camp above the
city smog below during winter

Retreat Camp from Ogden home on
lighted knoll at end of rainbow



Waterfall Canyon

Waterfall Canyon is a popular hike for many Ogden residents.  It has been a favorite destination for youth groups and adults alike, seeking a temporary escape from the hustle-bustle of city life below.  The flow of the waterfall can range from a trickle to a raging torrent depending on runoff and current weather conditions.  On hot summer days during heavy runoff, hikers often find relief from the cooling spray at the base of the 200-foot waterfall.  When temperatures become frigid during winter months, the waterfall turns into a giant ice pillar that attracts both climbers and onlookers.  The main trail to Waterfall Canyon begins at the top of 29th Street behind the high-rise residential suites.  From here the trail climbs and connects to the Lake Bonneville Shoreline Trail, where you turn right (south) and hike past the rusty water tanks into Waterfall Canyon.  This part of the hike can be quite hot during the afternoon sun, but relief is found once you reach the stream and tree shade of Waterfall Canyon.  Distance to the waterfall is about 1.5 miles one-way with an elevation gain of about 1,200 feet.  For those with a little more strength and determination, you can hike up the gully to the right (south) of the waterfall into Malans Basin.  Years ago there used to be a resort in Malans Basin that was run by the Malan Family of Ogden.  If you search closely, you can still find the remnants of this resort, including an old boiler.

The waterfall during a cold snap
in January

Posing with daughter and boyfriend
near base of waterfall





Mount Ogden Peak

We moved to Ogden, Utah from Logan when mother married my stepfather.  My attention eventually focused on the seemly large mountain east of our new home, which was Mount Ogden Peak.  The first hike I took to the top of this mountain was when I got involved with the Boy Scouts during my last year of Primary.  Primary is a youth organization in my church, and at that time we were known as the Guide Patrol class.  We had a remarkable teacher, Emma Roberts, who took us on a hike to Mount Ogden to fulfill some of our requirements in scouting.  I remember taking the trail in Taylor Canyon atop 27th Street and going over the summit of Malans Peak – a climb of approximately 2,000 feet.  The big drawback here was having to descend into Malans Basin – perhaps a few hundred feet – before ascending up Mount Ogden Peak itself.  The trail tends to fade to ascending gullies and rocky slopes once you get past Malans Basin.  Close to the 9,572-foot summit, we came across a rattlesnake located beneath a rock we were hiking near.  Scouts being scouts, we became interested in the creature, and though none of us got bit, one of the boys killed it and decided to take it home as a trophy.  Obviously we weren’t aware at that time that we shouldn’t kill snakes – even if they appear threatening to us.  Our teacher let us know later that she didn’t approve of our handling of the snake – a valuable lesson to me.  I’ve been to the top of this mountain several times since – starting sometimes from the less-strenuous Snow Basin side.

At the summit of Mount Ogden Peak
with associates from work

Mount Ogden Peak from Taylor Canyon –

Photo Credit: Steve Baker







My First Hike

The first real hike I remember taking without any adult supervision was one in the Logan, Utah area when I was a child.  We lived on the east bench of the city near the USU campus and the Country Club Golf Course during the mid to late 1960s.  At that time there were no homes located east of the canal, and I used to wonder what it would be like to hike to the two antennas on top of what I referred to as Saddleback Mountain.  After some persuading of my mother and my friend’s mother, they allowed us to set out on a day-long hike to the top of Saddleback Mountain.  My friend was Robert Elwood, and I was actually about a year or two older than he was.  As I recall, there was no real trail to the top of this mountain.  We simply hiked through the brush and grass and rocks to the top.  We hiked past the rocky outcrop known as Castle Rock and a mining prospecting dig further up the mountain.  We reached the 7,475-foot summit where the antennas were sometime during the early afternoon before heading down.  The Providence of God smiled upon us during this hike, which was a good thing for a first-time hike.  Though tired, we encountered no mishaps, such as falls, injury, rattlesnakes, or unfavorable weather during this hike.



Rock outcrop known as Castle Rock



Saddleback Mountain taken

from home in Logan, Utah