Great Salt Lake Art Loop

One of Utah's unique tourist attractions has always been the Great Salt Lake.  Traveling around this body of water and its western desert provides a variety of recreational opportunities that include birding, hiking, mountain biking, sailing, and many other activities.  Though the largest salt water lake in the Western Hemisphere, it is only a small remnant of the much-larger Lake Bonneville in prehistoric times.  Back in the 1890s and early 1900s, the Great Salt Lake was a popular destination for swimming and beach activities – particularly the famed Saltair resort.  Today, most residents living along the Wasatch Front identify the Great Salt Lake with its lake-effect storms, beautiful sunsets, and the occasional stench whenever the wind blows just right.  Much of this smell comes from the decaying algae and brine shrimp waste that form along the shores of the lake.  Out in the middle of the lake there is no significant smell at all.  For the average person traveling through this area, the landscape may become quite dull – to the point of putting some to sleep.  To lessen the effects of this, occasional rest stops have been constructed and certain artists have left their artistic touch in the area.  This post identifies three particular works of art in and around the Great Salt Lake and its western desert.  It is a motorized road trip description rather than the usual hike or trek on foot.

The first work of art along the Great Salt Lake Art Loop is a sculpture on the north side of I-80 about 95 miles west of Salt Lake City.  Called "Metaphor: The Tree of Utah," it stands 87 feet tall and was created by the Swedish artist, Karl Momen, during the 1980s.  It was constructed to bring brilliant color and beauty to a barren, harsh landscape that hindered many travelers during pioneer times.  There is no official exit at milepost 26 of the freeway to reach this "tree in the desert."  Though not recommended by the Utah Highway Patrol, you can pull off the freeway to have a closer look and/or photograph the sculpture, but please exercise extreme caution when doing so.

Metaphor: The Tree of Utah located on
the north side of I-80 near milepost 26

View of the Sun Tunnels looking
towards the south near Lucin, Utah

A more remote work of art in the northern reaches of the Great Salt Lake Desert is the Sun Tunnels near the ghost town of Lucin.  This large-scale artwork was created by the American artist, Nancy Holt, in 1976.  Consisting of four concrete tunnels that are eighteen feet long and nine feet in diameter, the Sun Tunnels are laid out in an open X configuration.  Similar to England's Stonehenge, the tunnels are aligned perfectly to frame the sunrise and sunset during the summer and winter solstices.  Additionally, small holes have been drilled in the sides to form different constellations from the sky as well as unique sunlight patterns on the inside.  To reach the Sun Tunnels from I-80, take the Bonneville Speedway exit (Exit 4) just east of Wendover and turn north along the paved road.  The gas station just off this exit is a good place to stock up on gasoline and snacks – as there are no more gas stations until Snowville.  While most vehicles should be able to drive across the graded dirt roads in this area, it would be wise to check the weather forecast and travel this route only under dry conditions.  An alternative paved route may be taken through Nevada, if necessary, but this adds at least 30 miles additional to the loop.  Approximately 1.2 miles from the exit, take the left (west) fork and continue northwest along the Leppy Pass Road, staying left (west) of the utility building at about 4.5 miles.  The pavement ends just past the cattle guard into Nevada at approximately 7.6 miles, and at about 17.0 miles a second cattle guard is crossed that puts you back into Utah.  This road offers spectacular views of the Pilot Range to the west and the salt flats and lesser mountain ranges to the east.  Near the south tip of the Lucin Hill at approximately 46.0 miles from I-80, turn right (eastward) onto the graded road; following it for about 2.3 miles before turning right again (south) to reach the Sun Tunnels.

Looking through one of the small
holes in the side of the Sun Tunnels

View of the Spiral Jetty taken from
the slope of an adjoining hill

The third and final work of art described in this post is the Spiral Jetty, which is located on the northeast shore of the Great Salt Lake south-southwest of Promontory.  This unique earthen sculpture was constructed in 1970 by the American artist, Robert Smithson.  Over 6,000 tons of black basalt rock and earth were used to construct the counterclockwise coil that measures 1,500 feet long by 15 feet wide.  Depending on the water level of the Great Salt Lake, the sculpture may be submerged at times – so check the conditions of the lake before going for prime viewing.  It is best seen when the water level is below about 4,195 feet elevation.  To reach the Spiral Jetty from the Sun Tunnels, proceed back to the main road near the south tip of the Lucin Hill and turn right (north) towards Lucin and the railroad tracks.  Back in its heyday, Lucin was an oasis in the desert that served as an important water stop for steam locomotives to be replenished.  Today the area is managed for birds and other wildlife by the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources.  Continuing along the road approximately 5.5 miles beyond the railroad tracks, turn right (eastward) onto the paved SR 30 towards Rosette and Park Valley.  This highway continues just over 81 miles through these settlements to reach I-84 not far from the Idaho border.  Arriving at Snowville, you can refuel and take care of any other business necessary to continue the road trip.  From I-84, take the Hansel Valley exit (Exit 16) and turn right (southward) onto the Hansel Valley Road.  After about 4.4 miles, make a left (east) turn next to the farmhouse where the road turns to graded dirt, and continue towards the mountains before heading south again along the foot of the range.  Promontory Summit lies approximately 22 miles south of I-84 along the Hansel Valley route.  This is the site where the completion of the first transcontinental railroad took place back in 1869 that joined our Nation together.  To reach the Spiral Jetty, continue on past Promontory for about 5.6 miles and take the left (south) fork of the road over the cattle guard.  At close to 1.5 miles beyond the first fork, take the right (west) fork and drive the remaining 8.8 miles over the graded dirt road to a parking area near the Spiral Jetty.  Again, most vehicles should be able to travel this route provided it's dry and well maintained.

Close-up view of the Spiral Jetty
taken near the parking area

I-15 is reached from the Spiral Jetty by returning to Promontory and taking the paved road towards the east a little over a mile beyond it.  Driving about 6.7 miles from this point will take you to SR 83, where you then turn right (southward) to reach I-15 near Brigham City some 20 miles distant from there.  Total distance from the north junction of I-15 and I-80 around the Great Salt Lake Art Loop to this same spot again is approximately 407 miles.

Pilot Peak, Nevada

West of the Great Salt Lake across the Bonneville Salt Flats lies a mountain known as Pilot Peak, which is located about 20 miles north of Wendover.  Whether coming from the east or from the west along I-80, this mountain is quite noticeable on the horizon when approaching it.  During pioneer times it served as an important guide for explorers seeking a shorter route through the Great Basin on the way to California.  When the Donner Party crossed the inhospitable expanse of the Great Salt Lake Desert, they found life-saving water from springs at the base of Pilot Peak.  Later it became a reference point for surveying the Nevada-Utah boundary in 1870.  With over 5,700 feet of prominence, steep talus slopes, and no established trails; Pilot Peak makes for a challenging climb that requires most of one day.  It proved to be one of my most difficult hikes when I took it years ago with several others – mainly due to the dry conditions, afternoon heat, and the fact that I ran out of water on the way back down.  Based on my experience, I would recommend taking this hike during the autumn months when temperatures are cooler and take at least one gallon of water per person.  Most of Pilot Peak lies on public land that is administered by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) with the majority of private land located along the west side.

For our hike, we approached the west (Nevada) side of the mountain.  The reasoning behind this was to make our ascent during the cooler morning hours as the mountain shaded us from the sun.  Our starting point was accessed from I-80 by taking the Pilot Road exit (Exit 398) in Nevada and turning right (northeast) on a road that curves and parallels the freeway for approximately 1.5 miles.  Past this point the road curves to more of a north-northeasterly direction where we continued for another 11.1 miles past a quarry located off the right (east) side of the road.  Just past the quarry, we turned right (east) onto an unimproved road and drove about 1.7 miles to a junction where the road forks left (northeast) across a drainage.  Here we took the left road and continued as far as possible towards the mountain before parking.  To reach the Miners Canyon starting point from I-80, take the Bonneville Speedway exit (Exit 4) in Utah and turn north along the paved road for approximately 1.2 miles to the junction.  Take the left (west) fork and continue northwest along the Leppy Pass Road, staying left (west) of the utility building at about 4.5 miles and crossing the cattle guard into Nevada at about 7.6 miles where the pavement ends.  At approximately 17.0 miles from I-80 just before the second cattle guard crossing, turn left (northwest) onto the unimproved road and continue as far as possible towards Miners Canyon and Pilot Peak.

Pilot Peak viewed from the west
(Nevada) side near our starting point

Reaching the top of the
southwest ridge of Pilot Peak

From where we parked our vehicle, we followed the road a little further until it faded out.  Beyond this point we made our way along a drainage that veered to the left (north) of a less-obvious drainage.  As we got further up the canyon, the process became more tedious as we worked our way through bushes, trees, and rock.  We kept an eye out for possible rattlesnakes hiding in the thickets, but remarkably we never came across any.  In the upper reaches of the canyon we encountered talus slopes, which made for slow going up the mountainside.  Here it becomes essential to wear proper hiking boots and use extreme caution when crossing the loose rock to avoid sprained ankles and injury to other hikers.  A much-needed rest came when we reached the top of the southwest ridge at just over 9,000 feet elevation.  Upon reaching this point, spectacular views to the east and southeast were unveiled before our eyes.  Our climb continued up the ridge for a ways, and then we traversed to the right (east) some to avoid a rugged rocky section with exposure not far from the summit.  It was early afternoon when we finally reached the 10,716-foot summit of Pilot Peak.  Along with a summit registry, there were portions of rock walls that were most likely part of a U.S. Coast & Geodetic survey station.  While the west approach was beneficial for us during the cooler morning hours, it became quite hot and miserable for us as we descended during the afternoon.  With the sun beating more directly upon us, we found ourselves drinking just as much, if not more water than we were when we were going up.  Before I knew it, I had run out of water about two-thirds of the way down, and by the time we reached our vehicle I was quite thirsty and close to having heat exhaustion.  So much for hiking this mountain in July!  Distance from where we parked to the summit of Pilot Peak is approximately 3.5 miles one-way with an elevation gain of about 5,000 feet.  The Miners Canyon route is about one mile shorter (2.5 miles one-way) with an elevation gain of approximately 4,450 feet.

Pilot Peak as viewed from the
top of the southwest ridge

At the summit of Pilot Peak next to the
summit mailbox – Photo credit: Joe Harline

The Jordan River Parkway

Unlike my previous posts, the Jordan River Parkway is an urbanized route that will extend from Utah Lake in the south to the Great Salt Lake marshlands in the north when completed.  This parkway was established during the 1970s, primarily for flood control and to restore the natural beauty that once existed along the Jordan River.  At the time it was an immense undertaking, given the years of neglect and urban encroachment on the natural habitat, yet wise planners realized that protection of the river was necessary.  Each of the municipalities bordering the river would need to contribute to the cleanup effort and reclaiming the land for the restoration to take full effect.  Though there is still more work that needs to be done, progress is being made along the parkway, and recreational opportunities abound.  Some of the amenities of the Jordan River Parkway include: paved bicycling paths, boardwalks, equestrian trails, fishing, picnic areas, wildlife observation points, and community parks with playgrounds and restrooms.

This post is a brief description of the Jordan River route from the Spring View Farms Trailhead in Bluffdale to the Rose Park Golf Course in the North Rose Park area of Salt Lake.  To reach the Spring View Farms Trailhead from I-15, take the 14600 South exit (Exit 288) and turn northwest onto SR 140 to reach 14600 South.  At approximately 1.2 miles from I-15, a single-lane underpass is encountered just before reaching the trailhead.  Be sure to stop and check for oncoming traffic before proceeding.  The trailhead is about 0.4 miles beyond the underpass along the right (north) side of the road.  To reach the Rose Park Golf Course from I-80, take the Redwood Road exit (Exit 118) and turn north onto Redwood Road (SR 68).  Drive north for approximately 2.3 miles where the golf course will be on the right (east) side of the road.  There are also, of course, many other access points to the Jordan River Parkway in the Salt Lake metropolitan area.

The Spring View Farms Trailhead
sign near 14600 South

View looking towards the Wasatch
Mountains along the Jordan River path

While I have never actually walked the entire distance of the parkway mentioned in this post, I have been on good portions of it at various locations.  Also, there are parts of the route that aren't well marked, and it's easy to take the seemingly correct fork – only to realize later that you should have taken the other fork.  Given that we're in an urban setting, however, it's impossible to become too lost.  From Spring View Farms, the trail extends northward under the Bangerter Highway and on towards the Riverbend Golf Course.  Past the golf course and beyond the next underpass, stay on the right (east) side of the river for about 1.6 miles and then cross the footbridge to the west just before 11400 South.  Continuing on through the South Jordan Parkway underpass at 10600 South, the Jordan River Migratory Bird Reserve spans along the east side of the river.  Just north of Shields Lane in the Sandy City portion of the parkway is the three-acre Sandy Pond, which allows for urban fishing and boating.  At the 7800 South underpass, Gardner Village shopping and dining area lies just west of the trail on the other side of the TRAX rail line.  The path continues beyond Gardner Village along the west side of the river for approximately 2.1 miles where a footbridge crosses to the east just before the I-215 underpass.  Another 1.2 miles beyond I-215 brings you to Millrace Park just past the 5400 South underpass along the west side of the river.  This park offers a playground, pond, and restrooms.  A unique amenity in this area is the Kennecott Nature Center, which provides environmental learning experiences for children in the Murray and Granite School Districts.  Just before reaching the 4500 South underpass in Taylorsville, a Freedom Shrine honors the military veterans of the area who died in World Wars I and II.  In West Valley City across the river from the Oxbow Jail complex is the Utah Cultural Celebration Center that unifies cultural diversity through its various events.  Not far from this point a footbridge crosses to the west side of the river where the route passes next to the Khadeejah Islamic Center about 0.9 miles further.  Continuing on through the SR 201 Freeway underpass and 2100 South itself, the trail crosses the river again to the east side at the edge of the Glendale Golf Course.

The Jordan River path is great
for miles of bicycle riding

The International Peace Gardens in Salt
Lake City is one of the many amenities
along the Jordan River Parkway

One of the main attractions along the Jordan River Parkway is the International Peace Gardens in Salt Lake City at 1000 South.  These gardens and monuments dedicated to specific countries represent the true spirit of democracy and peace throughout the world.  After passing through the I-80 underpass, the trail ends briefly and you have to walk along 200 South to 1000 West, and then north to North Temple Street.  Once at North Temple, walk west along the north side of the street to a point on the west edge of the Utah State Fair Grounds where the Jordan River Trail begins again.  Distance from the Spring View Farms Trailhead to the Rose Park Golf Course is approximately 27.5 miles one-way with an elevation loss of approximately 180 feet.  It is worth mentioning that the Jordan River Trail continues beyond the Rose Park Golf Course and eventually connects with the Legacy Parkway Trail in Davis County.

Little Willow & Rocky Mouth Falls

Along the northwest slopes of Mount Jordan are two waterfalls that are not as well-known as other hikes along the Wasatch Front.  A delightful time to take these hikes is during the autumn season when the weather is cooler and the leaves are changing color.  The Little Willow Waterfall is reached by hiking the Sawmill Trail, which begins at the Bonneville Shoreline Trail and ascends into Little Willow Canyon.  There are also various rock outcroppings in both Big and Little Willow Canyons that often attract rock climbers to the area.  Continuing into Big Willow Canyon will reward you with more of an alpine setting of small streams and shade from pine trees.  Reaching the Rocky Mouth Waterfall involves a very short hike that is suitable for both children and adults.  Due to the area being in a watershed, no dogs are allowed on either of these hikes.

The trail to the Rocky Mouth Waterfall begins at the Rocky Mouth Trailhead along the east side of Wasatch Boulevard at about 11200 South.  To reach this point from I-15, take the 12300 South exit (Exit 291) and turn east towards Draper along 12300 South (SR 71).  After 2.0 miles the street turns into the Draper Parkway and curves northward to eventually become 1700 East.  At approximately 3.3 miles, turn right (east) onto Wasatch Boulevard and continue driving another 2.3 miles to reach the trailhead.  No trailhead parking is allowed on the streets above the Rocky Mouth Trailhead.  The route for accessing the Sawmill Trail begins at the Hidden Valley Park, which are the same directions as above – only drive 1.7 miles along Wasatch Boulevard instead of the 2.3.  Parking is available near the pavilion at Hidden Valley Park, which is south of the larger church parking lot to the right (southeast) of the street.  It is preferred that this area be used for trailhead parking, not the church parking lot itself.

Marker designating the Rocky Mouth
Trailhead east along Wasatch Blvd.

Posing next to the Rocky Mouth
Waterfall during low runoff

From Hidden Valley Park, the Sawmill Trail is reached by following the asphalt pathway at the east end of the parking area to the benches and sign directing you to the Bonneville Shoreline Trail.  Follow the dirt road for approximately 0.15 miles to a gate and sign that indicates the Bonneville Shoreline Trail.  Continue hiking around the gate and up the road until the sign directing you to the Sawmill Trail is reached off to the right (south).  Please respect private property by not proceeding past the second gate.  For about the next half-mile, the Sawmill Trail climbs rather steeply through several switchbacks to a nice viewpoint where it turns into Little Willow Canyon.  Once in Little Willow Canyon, the route becomes less steep for the remaining distance to the Little Willow Waterfall.  Before reaching the waterfall; the trail forks at an avalanche warning sign where the left (east) fork of the trail continues over a ridge into Big Willow Canyon.  A lower cascade must be skirted around to reach the actual waterfall, which sits at an approximate elevation of 6,820 feet.  Distance from the Hidden Valley parking area to the Little Willow Waterfall is about 1.7 miles one-way with an elevation gain of approximately 1,700 feet.

View looking northward towards the
Hounds Tooth from the Sawmill Trail

The route to the Rocky Mouth Waterfall climbs a stairway from the trailhead and continues along the edge of a residential street for about 750 feet.  Look for the sign and entrance into a narrow passageway that leads across private property to the waterfall.  Again, respect private property and observe the regulations for continued access to this beauty of nature.  Total distance one-way is just under a half-mile with an elevation gain of approximately 300 feet.

The lower cascade area below
the Little Willow Waterfall

The Little Willow Waterfall
during low runoff

Lone Peak (Jacobs Ladder Extension)

Lone Peak is one of the more difficult hikes along the Wasatch Front, mainly due to the elevation gain required to reach the summit.  Though not the highest point that overlooks the Salt Lake and Utah Valleys, it is perhaps the most noticeable with its beautiful cirque and sheer granite cliffs.  It is part of the Lone Peak Wilderness Area, which was the first congressionally designated wilderness area in Utah.  Along with hikers, Lone Peak often attracts rock climbers that demonstrate their skills in reaching the summit.  Like the Broads Fork Twins, those attempting to climb Lone Peak should be in top physical condition and plan for a long day.  Be sure to take plenty of liquids with you as there is little to no sources of water along the entire route.  I would recommend a bare-minimum of one gallon per person for this hike – preferably more.  The weather is another important element to consider before undertaking the hike.  Since Lone Peak is isolated from most of the other high Wasatch peaks, it is more susceptible to sudden storms and lightning strikes.  If thunderstorms are in the forecast, it would be wise to postpone this hike for a different day.  With all that said, this hike will greatly reward those that take the necessary precautions and have the stamina to endure it to the end.

For now the Jacobs Ladder Trailhead provides the least amount of elevation gain to reach the summit of Lone Peak.  From Lone Rock this trail ascends steeply (approximately 2,200 feet of gain in 1.5 miles) past a resting rock to a junction with the Draper Ridge Trail.  Watch your footing while navigating the steep portions of the route to avoid slipping and falling.  Beyond the junction the trail levels out to provide temporary, but welcomed relief from climbing.  At the top of the knoll above the junction is the recently named Enniss Peak – named in honor of the Enniss family who were pioneers that settled in Draper.  Though not particularly visible, a route to the Outlaw Cabin forks to the left (north) of the main trail about 0.6 miles past the Draper Ridge Trail junction.  From here the cabin is just over a half-mile with a small spring beyond along the Bear Canyon Trail.  Make your way towards the long saddle on the ridge to the north, following any obvious paths that lead to it.

View of Lone Peak from the
southwest edge of the cirque

View of Question Mark Wall that
extends southwest from Lone Peak

Continuing east along the main trail, the route becomes less distinct the further you get, and you end up looking for cairns to mark the path.  This is pretty much the case for the remainder of the hike to the summit.  At approximately 1.7 miles beyond the Draper Ridge Trail junction, the route becomes a boulder scramble to reach the cirque below Lone Peak.  Upon reaching the cirque the close-up grandeur of Lone Peak is unveiled before your eyes with its granite walls and sporadic pines clinging to the ledges.  Examining the peak closely, there are actually two summits that are separated by a perilous ridge – the north summit being higher than the south summit by about 20 feet.  To reach the north summit, make your way towards the saddle on the ridge north and west of Lone Peak.  Following the cairns along the route will generally lead you there.  Once on the ridge, continue following the obvious paths that lead to the summit.  In the last several hundred feet of the hike, it becomes a tricky boulder scramble with exposure, so use extreme caution.  At the summit itself, there is a 600-foot drop-off towards the south, so be careful there as well.  Distance from Lone Rock to the 11,253-foot summit of Lone Peak is approximately 4.0 miles (6.0 miles from the Jacobs Ladder parking lot) one-way with an elevation gain of 4,330 feet (5,530 feet from the parking lot).  It is worth mentioning that I climbed to the south summit of Lone Peak from the Second Hamongog a number of years earlier with my hiking partner, Joe.

Hiking along the final ridge towards
the north summit of Lone Peak

View looking southeast over the south
summit towards Mount Timpanogos

Jacobs Ladder & Other Rocks

While not a very spectacular hike in and of itself, the lower part of the Jacobs Ladder Trail provides access to great vantage points for viewing the Salt Lake and Utah Valleys.  At one time much of this area was opened to motorized vehicles, but it is now closed due to initiatives passed by the city councils of Alpine and Draper to protect the environment.  Today it serves as a popular destination for mountain bikers and for hikers heading to Lone Peak.  Based on the topographic map, Jacobs Ladder is a series of rock outcroppings that extend approximately one-half mile along the Utah County side of the ridge below Lone Rock.  Since the trail traverses the top of the ridgeline, it is very easy to hike past these formations without realizing that they are even there.  During the summer months this hike is best done in the cooler times of the day since it has southerly and westerly facing slopes with little or no shade.

The Jacobs Ladder Trailhead is located along the Corner Canyon dirt road that begins near the Orson Smith Trailhead in Draper.  To reach the Orson Smith Trailhead from I-15, take the 12300 South exit (Exit 291) and turn east towards Draper along 12300 South (SR 71).  At about 2.0 miles turn right (southward) onto 1300 East for approximately 0.2 miles to the roundabout, and then follow it to head east on Pioneer Road (3rd exit).  One mile east of the roundabout, turn right (south) at the stop sign onto 2000 East and follow it approximately 0.3 miles to reach the Orson Smith Trailhead on the left (east) side of the street.  This area can also be reached from Wasatch Boulevard by turning left (south) onto 1700 East, which turns into the Draper Parkway, and then turning left (southward) again onto 1300 East.  Upon turning into the trailhead parking, take the dirt road immediately to the right (south) and follow it approximately 2.6 miles past the opened gate to an upper parking area with restrooms.  If the gate is closed and locked, it will be necessary to hike this distance on foot.

Jacobs Ladder Trailhead sign along the
northeast side of Corner Canyon Road

View looking west from Lone Rock along
the formations known as Jacobs Ladder

For about the first 0.6 miles the trail switchbacks up a hill to an old unimproved road with a directional sign.  A possible connection trail to the Movie Rocks forks to the left (north) just over 0.1 miles into the hike, but I have never actually followed it to find out.  The unimproved road from the directional sign is basically followed the remaining distance to Lone Rock, which altogether is approximately 2.0 miles one-way from the upper parking lot.  Elevation gain from the upper parking lot to Lone Rock is about 1,200 feet.  Remember to take occasional deviations to the right (south) near Lone Rock if you desire to look at the actual Jacobs Ladder rock formations.  For those desiring a more challenging hike, the trail makes a steep 900-foot climb beyond Lone Rock to Resting Rock.  Resting Rock is not an official name of this formation, but merely a name I refer to as a midway resting point during the steep ascent up Draper Ridge.  The elevation of Resting Rock is 7,820 feet and the distance is 0.7 miles beyond the Lone Rock formation.  Just beyond Lone Rock at the bottom of the steep section, another trail leading to the Second Hamongog forks to the right (east).

View looking northeastward towards
Lone Peak from Resting Rock

South end of the Salt Lake Valley
from Resting Rock

Wellsville Mountains

The Wellsville Mountains of northern Utah rise abruptly between the Bear River plain to the west and the southern portion of Cache Valley to the east.  Though only moderately high in elevation, they are considered one of the steepest mountain ranges in the world – averaging four to five miles wide at the base and rising about 5,000 feet above the valley floor.  In 1984 the area was designated as the Wellsville Mountain Wilderness Area to further protect it from the overgrazing that was quite common in earlier years.  Today the range is seeing increasing populations of deer, moose, and mountain lions.  Since it lies along a major migratory route for birds, the Wellsville Mountains are also a popular place to observe different types of birds, particularly hawks.  Access to the summit ridgeline is easiest from the Cache Valley side of the range where there are three trailheads.  The ones mentioned in this post include the Maple Bench Trailhead and the Rattlesnake Canyon Trailhead.

When I did this hike we started at the Maple Bench Trailhead and returned the same way since we had only one vehicle.  Another vehicle parked at the Rattlesnake Canyon Trailhead however, would have allowed us to hike the remaining portion of the summit ridge.  To reach the Maple Bench Trailhead from U.S. Highway 89 to the south, turn left (north) onto Center Street (SR 23) at Wellsville and drive around 6.6 miles through town and beyond to reach Main Street in Mendon.  Make a sharp left turn (south) onto Main Street and then turn right (west) onto 1800 South, which changes to dirt.  Follow 1800 South westward, then southward, and then westward again to reach 6400 West.  Take the right (west) fork at 6400 West and continue southwest along the road for the remaining two miles or so to reach the trailhead.  We started hiking from Gibson Canyon, but you may be able to drive further along the road depending upon its condition.  This same trailhead can be reached from Logan by taking 200 North (SR 30) from Main Street (U.S. 89) and driving westward approximately 7.6 miles to reach SR 23.  At SR 23, turn left (south) and drive about 3.5 miles through Mendon to reach Main Street, veering to the right (due south) along Main Street to reach 1800 South.  The Rattlesnake Canyon Trailhead is located along the north side of U.S. Highway 89 as it curves into the upper part of Wellsville Canyon.  Keep in mind that there is no break in the center highway barrier to allow for left-hand turning into the trailhead area.  Northbound travelers must continue driving until the center barrier ends and then double back on the other side of the highway to reach the trailhead.

Coldwater Lake above the Maple Bench
Trailhead – Photo credit: SummitPost

Box Elder Peak looms just over a
half-mile from the Wellsville Cone

For the first mile or so along Maple Bench, the trail makes a gradual climb around the lower ridges; past Coldwater Lake, which is the only official lake in the Wellsville Range.  Beyond Coldwater Lake the trail becomes steeper for the next two miles as it switchbacks up the mountainside to Stewart Pass at 8,376 feet elevation.  From Stewart Pass it's another 1.6 miles southward along the summit ridge to reach the Wellsville Cone.  Box Elder Peak is the highest point in the Wellsville Mountains at 9,372 feet, and reaching its summit is about a three-quarter-mile hike south of the Wellsville Cone.  While the Rattlesnake Canyon Trail provides a shorter distance to Box Elder Peak (4.0 miles one-way), it has 500 feet more elevation gain than the Maple Bench Trail.  Be sure to take plenty of liquids with you as there are no real sources of drinking water along the entire route.  Distance from the Maple Bench Trailhead to the summit of Box Elder Peak is approximately 5.5 miles one-way with an elevation gain of about 3,480 feet.

View from the Wellsville Cone looking
into Cache Valley over the towns of
Wellsville and Hyrum