Clayton Peak

One of the easiest 10,000-foot peaks to climb in the Wasatch Range is Clayton Peak at the end of Big Cottonwood Canyon.  This peak straddles the Salt Lake-Wasatch County line near the upper terminus of the Great Western Express ski lift at the Brighton Resort.  It is one of the few vantage points where six world-class ski resorts can be viewed at once.  Clayton Peak also offers spectacular views of the Heber Valley, Mount Timpanogos, and the Uinta Mountains to the east.  During the time we went up, there happened to be a team of Varsity Scouts at the summit, signaling other scouts with mirrors on some of the surrounding peaks.  Clayton Peak can be hiked from basically two starting points; the Lake Mary-Catherine Pass trailhead near the southeast edge of the parking lot at Brighton Ski Resort, and the summit at Guardsman Pass to the north of Clayton Peak.

To reach the Lake Mary-Catherine Pass trailhead from the Salt Lake Valley, take the 6200 South (Exit 6) off of I-215 and turn right (at the light) onto Wasatch Boulevard (SR 190).  At Fort Union Boulevard (7200 South), turn left (east) to go up Big Cottonwood Canyon towards the Brighton and Solitude Ski Resorts.  Continue driving all the way to the end of the canyon to the Brighton Ski Resort parking area (about 14.6 miles).  The trail begins at an information board not far from some resort structures.  During the first part of the climb, various service roads that lace through the area will be encountered, making it easy to become sidetracked if you're not paying attention to the general trail path.  At around 0.8 miles the trail splits; the left fork goes towards Dog Lake (not the Dog Lake described in the previous post) and the right fork goes to Lake Mary.  If more time is available, the extra quarter-mile hike to Lake Mary is certainly worth the effort.  To continue on to Clayton Peak, however, the left fork towards Dog Lake is taken.  This route continues through a generally forested area for about 1.3 miles to reach Snake Creek Pass, where the Heber Valley area comes into view.  Follow the service road that leads northwestward towards the base of Clayton Peak.  Upon reaching the base, the trail picks up again for a rocky ascent through a series of switchbacks to the 10,721-foot summit.  Distance from the Lake Mary-Catherine Pass trailhead to Clayton Peak is approximately 2.7 miles one-way with an elevation gain of approximately 1,950 feet.

Clayton Peak as viewed from
Snake Creek Pass

At the summit of Clayton Peak with
Mount Timpanogos directly behind me –
Photo credit: Joe Harline

For those interested in climbing Clayton Peak from Guardsman Pass, the road to Guardsman Pass splits to the left (east) from the main highway at about 13.9 miles up Big Cottonwood Canyon.  Follow this road through several switchbacks for approximately 3.1 miles to reach Guardsman Pass at 9,700 feet elevation.  The trail from this direction ascends a steep ridge towards the southwest, and involves skirting around the right (west) side of a false summit (10420) to reach Clayton Peak.  Distance from Guardsman Pass to Clayton Peak is approximately 1.4 miles one-way with an elevation gain of 1,021 feet.

Dog Lake & Lake Desolation

Another easy to moderate hike up Big Cottonwood Canyon is the Mill D North Fork trail to Dog Lake and Lake Desolation.  This is a popular area for mountain bikers, particularly on the even-numbered calendar days, so keep an eye out for them and be considerate.  Weekdays are generally less crowded than the weekends to hike on the trail.  During the winter months, it is not unusual to see snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in the area.  Dog Lake and Lake Desolation are approximately 2.5 miles hiking distance from each other, and can be hiked within the same trip given sufficient time.

The trailhead at Mill D North Fork is reached from the Salt Lake Valley by taking the 6200 South (Exit 6) off of I-215 and turning right (at the light) onto Wasatch Boulevard (SR 190).  At Fort Union Boulevard (7200 South), turn left (east) to go up Big Cottonwood Canyon towards the Brighton and Solitude Ski Resorts.  Continue driving for approximately 9.0 miles up the canyon to the Mill D North Fork turn-out area located left (north) of the highway across from the Jordan Pines turn-off.  The trail ascends Reynolds Gulch very briefly before veering to the right (eastward) to curve around the mountain towards Mill D North Fork Canyon.  Resort homes will appear across the stream near the mouth of the canyon while approaching it.  In the canyon beyond the resort home area, the trail reaches the Mill D North Fork streambed, which varies in water flow depending on the season.  After approximately 1.7 miles the trail splits; the left trail going to Dog Lake (another 0.6 miles) while the right trail goes to Lake Desolation (another 1.9 miles).  A spring lies downhill from the point where the trail splits.

Dog Lake as viewed from the north; dogs

are allowed at Dog Lake from Mill Creek

Sign where the trail splits to
Dog Lake and Lake Desolation



The trail to Dog Lake ascends a moderately steep drainage that levels out some just before reaching the lake at approximately 8,735 feet elevation.  Unlike most surrounding lakes in the Wasatch Range, Dog Lake lies in the midst of a forest instead of a cirque.  While dogs are permitted at this lake, they can only be brought in from the Mill Creek side.  No dogs are allowed in Big Cottonwood Canyon due to the area being a vital watershed for the Salt Lake Valley.  Anyone caught with a dog beyond the warning signs near the south perimeter of Dog Lake could face a hefty fine.  Distance from the Mill D North Fork trailhead to Dog Lake is approximately 2.3 miles one-way with an elevation gain of approximately 1,450 feet.

Continuing along the trail to Lake Desolation (or Desolation Lake to some), the route makes a moderately steep climb northward and then levels out some after veering in more of an easterly direction.  Occasional meadows appear along this stretch and the surrounding peaks become more visible the closer you get to Lake Desolation.  A final climb comes about 0.5 miles before the lake while ascending the northwest rim of the basin where the lake lies.  The trail continues beyond Lake Desolation to join with the Great Western Trail, which provide spectacular views of the surrounding landscape.  From the northwest rim, a descent of about 50 feet is made to reach the shore of the lake at approximately 9,200 feet elevation.  Distance from the Mill D North Fork trailhead to Lake Desolation is approximately 3.6 miles one-way with an elevation gain of a little less than 2,000 feet.

Approaching Lake Desolation
from the northwest

Warning sign near the south perimeter of
Dog Lake – warning of no dogs or horses

Gobblers Knob & Mount Raymond

For those desiring a more moderate hike, the trail up Butler Fork to Gobblers Knob and Mount Raymond achieves this objective.  These two peaks are the highest points along the ridge that separates Mill Creek Canyon from Big Cottonwood Canyon – Gobblers Knob being a mere five feet higher than Mount Raymond.  This ridge forms part of the boundary of the Mount Olympus Wilderness Area, which currently excludes the Alexander Basin area to the north.  Gobblers Knob and Mount Raymond are often climbed within the same hike since the two summits are within 1.5 miles of each other.  While this area can be hiked anytime of the year, autumn is a particularly delightful time due to the cooler temperatures and the leaves changing color.

To reach the trailhead at Butler Fork from the Salt Lake Valley, take the 6200 South (Exit 6) off of I-215 and turn right (at the light) onto Wasatch Boulevard (SR 190).  At Fort Union Boulevard (7200 South), turn left (east) to go up Big Cottonwood Canyon towards the Brighton and Solitude Ski Resorts.  Continue driving for approximately 8.2 miles up the canyon to the Butler Fork turn-out area located left (north) of the highway.  On most days there should be plenty of parking in this area.  The trail follows Butler Fork for the first 1/2 mile before forking left (west) up a gully to a ridge overlooking Mill A Gulch.  Several switchbacks are encountered before reaching the ridge.  Once on the ridge, the trail levels out some until Mill A Basin at the foot of Mount Raymond.  From here the trail forks right towards Baker Pass (north) at approximately 9,350 feet elevation.  At the pass, you can choose which peak you want to climb first.  I chose Gobblers Knob first because of its slightly longer distance to reach the higher summit.  There are actually two summits on Gobblers Knob; the southwest summit is 22 feet lower than the higher 10,246-foot northeast summit.  For climbing Mount Raymond, the ridge is a little more exposed and requires more careful traversing to reach the 10,241-foot summit.  Distance from the trailhead to Gobblers Knob is approximately 4.1 miles one-way with an elevation gain of 3,126 feet.  To Mount Raymond, the distance is approximately 3.9 miles one-way with an elevation gain of 3,121 feet.

The twin summits of Gobblers Knob

from the summit of Mount Raymond

Mount Raymond (left) and the Salt Lake
Valley from the summit of Gobblers Knob



Donut Falls

A favorite hike for many that is suitable for the entire family is Donut (often spelled Doughnut) Falls, which is up the Mill D South Fork of Big Cottonwood Canyon.  It is a great hike for individuals who don't want to spend a lot of time necessary for longer, more strenuous hikes.  Unfortunately, the falls have lost some of their pristine beauty in recent years due to rock fall in the area.  Donut Falls is so named because the water cascades through a hole in the rock that looks like a donut hole when viewed from below.  In 2007 the City of Salt Lake purchased Donut Falls from private ownership along with about 144 acres of surrounding land in an effort to protect the city's watershed.

To access the Donut Falls trailhead from the Salt Lake Valley, take the 6200 South (Exit 6) off of I-215 and turn right (at the light) onto Wasatch Boulevard (SR 190).  At Fort Union Boulevard (7200 South), turn left (east) to go up Big Cottonwood Canyon towards the Brighton and Solitude Ski Resorts.  Continue driving for approximately 9.0 miles up the canyon to the Jordan Pines picnic area, and turn right (south) onto the paved turn-off.  The trailhead is at the south end of a parking lot about one mile down this turn-off – past the Jordan Pines picnic area and some private property.  A well-marked trail covers the first 0.4 miles of the hike before it crosses a stream to an old dirt road.  Follow this road upward for about 1/4 mile or so until the trail veers to the left (east) a little towards the narrowing canyon.  Upon reaching the stream area, a small steep slope into the streambed is encountered, which will require a helping hand for young children to get across.  The viewing area just below Donut Falls is approximately 7,820 feet in elevation.  Hiking in the grotto area and around the waterfall itself is discouraged due to the slippery wet conditions, the dislodging of rocks, and causing further damage to the unique character of the waterfall.  Distance is approximately 0.75 miles one-way with an elevation gain of 360 feet from the parking lot.

A group of young women hike in
the area just below Donut Falls

Close-up of Donut Falls – Photo
credit: Adventuretainment TV

Hiking and Trekking at Different Elevations

Elevation is the general term used when referencing points on the earth's surface above or below mean sea level.  Though the terms "altitude" and "elevation" are often used interchangeably, "altitude" refers more to the distance of an object (such as an airplane) above the earth's surface.  Conditions are much different at higher elevations on the earth's surface when compared to sea level.  The air is thinner, temperatures are nearly always much colder, and the vegetation looks different – provided there is any vegetation at all.  In places near the earth's equator where it is typically warm, there is perpetual snow on some of the mountain peaks of Africa and South America due to the high elevation.  The city of Cerro de Pasco in Peru lies well within the southern tropical zone, yet because it sits at 14,200 feet elevation, the average annual temperature is only 42° F.  For hiking and trekking, the elevation of a particular area determines what type of clothing will be worn, how long food will be cooked (on overnight treks), and how intense the solar radiation will be.

Humans are affected greatly by high altitude and high elevation.  As the altitude above sea level increases, the atmospheric pressure decreases, and every breath of air contains fewer and fewer molecules of oxygen.  One must therefore work harder to obtain oxygen by breathing faster and deeper.  As a matter of interest, the boiling point of human blood occurs at approximately 62,000 feet (18,900 meters) elevation.  The International Society for Mountain Medicine (ISMM) breaks high altitude on the ground into three categories:

• High Altitude:  5,000 to 11,500 feet (1,500 to 3,500 meters)
• Very High Altitude:  11,500 to 18,000 feet (3,500 to 5,500 meters)
• Extreme Altitude:  Above 18,000 feet (5,500 meters)

Since altitude-related illnesses don't typically occur below 8,000 feet, there is not much concern for activities in this range.  Higher up, however, normal physiologic changes occur in every person who attains a certain "threshold altitude."  This "threshold altitude" varies greatly depending on the person, their health condition, and the elevation at which they live at.  For a person who's lived most of his life at 4,500 feet elevation, 12,000 feet seems to be my threshold for noticing the altitude when hiking.  Below is a table I have compiled that indicates the varying average pressures and temperatures at different altitudes from sea level.

Note:  While sources I researched put the start of the "Death Zone" anywhere from 7,000 to 8,000 meters, I went with an average of 7,500 meters (24,606 feet).

The most common type of altitude-related illness is Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), which is a mild form of altitude sickness.  It occurs when the body hasn't had sufficient time to acclimatize to higher altitude, and may not become noticeable until you have been at the higher altitude for several hours.  The faster you climb to high altitudes, the more likely you are to get AMS.  Symptoms may include the following:

• Difficulty sleeping
• Dizziness or light-headedness
• Fatigue or weakness
• Headache
• Loss of appetite, nausea, or vomiting
• Rapid pulse
• Shortness of breath with exertion

AMS can eventually progress to High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE), which are both life-threatening.  The best prevention of any altitude-related illness is to ascend to higher altitudes slowly (no more than 2,000 feet of gain per day above 8,000 feet) and to descend to lower altitudes whenever altitude sickness symptoms appear.

Dromedary Peak (Lake Blanche Extension)

Dromedary Peak is the rounded hump to the right (west) of Lake Blanche that looks similar to the single-hump of a dromedary camel – hence its name.  During seasons of heavy precipitation, it can be covered with snow into the summer months.  While this peak isn't as popular of a climb as some of the other nearby peaks, it provides a commanding view of the surrounding landscape.  A visual route to the summit of Dromedary Peak can be mapped out from a smooth-rock overlook near the west end of Lake Blanche.  This is also a good spot to view all three lakes in this glacial basin (Blanche, Florence, and Lillian).

The rounded hump of Dromedary Peak
as seen from Lake Blanche

To begin the route to Dromedary Peak, you can either cross the dam on the west end of Lake Blanche, or cross further downstream just above Lake Florence if the water flow is low enough to safely do so.  Once the stream is crossed, continue southward from this point and then veer to the right (west) around the south end of Lake Lillian.  Work your way westward towards the low point on the ridge to the right (north) of Dromedary Peak.  The climb becomes steep once you enter a small cirque area north of the peak, and begin the tedious ascent up a gully to gain the 10,000-foot "low" point.  As you near the ridgeline, you encounter some inclining rock slabs that must be crossed, and care must be taken not to slip in this area.  Upon reaching the ridge, you have a clear view into Broads Fork Canyon and to the peaks that loom to the south and west.  The spine of the ridge you're on rises to Dromedary while Sunrise Peak (referred to as O'Sullivan Peak on most maps) sits just off to the right (west).  Off to the west-southwest sits the Broads Fork Twin Peaks, which are the highest points overlooking the Salt Lake Valley.  Continuing southward along the ridgeline, the next 600 feet of elevation gain is basically a boulder hop.  As you get closer to the summit, veer to the left (east) slope of the peak where there is less exposure.  The final obstacle before reaching the 11,107-foot summit of Dromedary Peak is a cliff band perhaps 20 to 30 feet high.  For the determined soul, the best way over this cliff band is to look for fissures and ledges where you can wedge your hands and feet into and pull yourself up.  Once on the summit, spectacular views unfold before you in all directions.  Distance from the north shore of Lake Blanche is approximately 1.7 miles one-way (4.7 miles from the Mill B Trailhead) with an elevation gain of 2,230 feet (4,900 feet from the trailhead). 

Hat marks the summit of Dromedary Peak
with Salt Lake Valley in the background

Lakes Lillian, Florence, and Blanche
taken near the summit of Dromedary Peak

Sundial Peak (Lake Blanche Extension)

Sundial Peak is the dramatic peak that rises abruptly to the south-southeast of Lake Blanche.  As you gaze at its sheer face from Lake Blanche, the mere thought of climbing to its summit would seem next to impossible for the average hiker.  While the final stretch of this hike requires some careful scrambling, reaching the summit of this peak is easier than it appears.  Upon studying the USGS 1:24,000 scale topographic map, you will notice that Sundial Peak (not listed by name on the map) forms the terminus of a ridge that extends northward from a nameless 11,033-foot peak.  It is from this ridge that the easiest approach to the summit of Sundial Peak is made.

From the north shore of Lake Blanche, the route is accessed by crossing the dam on the right side (west end) of the lake.  The last time I hiked in this area there was a breach in the dam where the stream runs through it, which may require some careful negotiating to stay dry.  Once on the other side, head for the sloping terrace to the right (west) of Sundial Peak just below the hanging valley.  As you ascend this terrace parallel to the cliffs on your left (east), it will curve a little to the left into a small basin.  The hiking gets noticeably steeper at this point as you veer more to the left up a boulder-strewn slope into a higher basin.  In this higher basin the cliffs basically disappear, and you climb more of a vegetative steep slope in a northeasterly direction to the upper bowl of the hanging valley.  At this point, Sundial Peak comes into full view again – although much different looking than from Lake Blanche.  The upper bowl area provides a good spot to rest and/or have lunch before the final stretch of the climb.  From this area, work your way eastward towards the low point along the Sundial Peak ridgeline.  Once the ridgeline is gained and you start working your way northward towards the summit, the exposure becomes readily apparent – particularly off to the right (east).  While the ridgeline is passable to the 10,320-foot summit of Sundial Peak, careful, non-rushed traversing is required that's not for the faint of heart.  In the end though, you are rewarded with spectacular views in all directions.  Distance from the north shore of Lake Blanche is approximately 1.5 miles one-way (4.5 miles from the Mill B Trailhead) with an elevation gain of 1,450 feet (4,120 feet from the trailhead).

View looking north at Sundial Peak
from the upper bowl area

View of Lake Blanche and Mill B Fork
Canyon from the summit of Sundial Peak