Box Elder Peak, Utah County

A spectacular area to drive through, especially during the autumn season when the leaves change color, is American Fork Canyon in Utah County.  Known as the Alpine Loop Scenic Highway, this route is quite popular for tourists visiting Timpanogos (pronounced "tim-pa-no-gus") Cave National Monument along with many locals seeking an escape into the mountains.  This canyon offers many recreational opportunities that include biking, camping, fishing, and of course, hiking.  North of American Fork Canyon in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area lies a prominent point known as Box Elder Peak – not to be confused with the Box Elder Peak in the Wellsville Mountains.  Situated between the Pfeifferhorn and Mount Timpanogos, Box Elder Peak is often overlooked for these higher, more popular peaks.  Although there are several routes up this mountain, the easiest approach is from the Granite Flat campground area, which is located just above Tibble Fork Reservoir.

To reach American Fork Canyon from I-15 coming from the north, take the Timpanogos Highway exit (Exit 284) and turn left (east) onto SR 92 to the mouth of the canyon (about 7.5 miles).  If coming from the south along I-15, take the Pleasant Grove Boulevard exit (Exit 275) and turn right (northeast) onto Pleasant Grove Boulevard.  At the next traffic signal turn left (northwest) onto 2000 West, which turns into North County Boulevard to the Mount Timpanogos LDS Temple.  Continue following this road northward to 11000 North (SR 92) and make a right (east) turn towards the mountains (about 6.0 miles from Exit 275).  The last time I went through the entrance station into American Fork Canyon, it was $6.00 per vehicle for a one-to-three day pass.  I understand that this fee is waived if you are visiting Timpanogos Cave National Monument only, or if you have purchased an "America the Beautiful" Parks Pass.  Keep in mind that all money collected at the entrance station remains in the area to maintain facilities, improve visitor services, and protect natural resources, including wildlife.  About 2.25 miles beyond the entrance station is the Timpanogos Cave Visitor Center off to the right (south).  At approximately 4.7 miles, take the left (north) fork onto SR 144 and continue about 2.5 miles past Tibble Fork Reservoir.  Take the hairpin turn to the left that swings you to the west and continue through the Granite Flat Campground guard station where there is parking near the trailhead on the right (north).

View of Box Elder Peak from the
Granite Flat Campground

A hiking directional sign located on
the north saddle of Box Elder Peak

The trail begins by climbing up the Deer Creek drainage into the wilderness area through a relatively forested section.  After nearly a mile, the trail crosses into more of a meadow area with small ponds off to the left (south).  It is not uncommon to see wildlife here as deer and moose typically frequent this area.  At a point where the trail splits, take the right (north) fork that begins a steeper ascent up the north slope of the canyon.  During spring runoff, many of the small drainages here are flowing with water, but conditions often become much drier later on.  Be sure to bring plenty of water to accommodate for this along with sunscreen – as most of the remainder of this hike is unshaded from the sun.  Before reaching the north saddle, the trail crosses a huge rock slide area that extends almost to the bottom of the drainage.  Once on the north saddle, the main trail continues into Dry Creek Canyon towards Horsetail Falls and Alpine while the trail leading south along the ridge continues to Box Elder Peak.  This south trail follows the saddle approximately 0.7 miles and descends just over 200 feet elevation before the final one-mile climb up the north ridge to the summit.  As you ascend the north ridge, an impressive view of an anticline can be seen by looking west across the north cirque of Box Elder Peak.  Distance from the Granite Flat parking area to the 11,101-foot summit of Box Elder Peak is approximately 5.2 miles one-way with an elevation gain of just over 4,500 feet.  This takes into account a 1,650-foot gain after a 210-foot loss.

An anticline viewed from the
north ridge of Box Elder Peak

View looking southward towards
the north face of Mount Timpanogos

Mount Olympus North Face

Mount Olympus is one of the most picturesque points along the east side of the Salt Lake Valley.  People often hike its slopes as a quick, convenient escape from the quick-paced life in the city below.  The most common approach is from the west side up Tolcats Canyon, yet a lesser-known route exists on the northern face of Mount Olympus.  Though not a trail that's officially maintained, this northern route cuts about 800 feet off the elevation gain and provides a more shaded route from the sun than the west approach.  Beginning at the Neffs Canyon trailhead, the North Face route follows the Norths Fork of Neffs Canyon to a steep drainage that angles across the north face of Mount Olympus.  This hike is best done during the late-summer and early-autumn seasons when the steep gullies, or couloirs, are free of snow and ice.  Sadly, a few hikers have slipped to their deaths after making one wrong step on the snow without the proper equipment; such as crampons and an ice axe.  Even without snow, it is wise to bring trekking poles to steady yourself on the steep terrain along with plenty of water – as the route is dry beyond Norths Fork.

To reach the Neffs Canyon trailhead from I-215, take the 3900 South exit (Exit 4) if coming from the north, or the Wasatch Boulevard exit (Exit 4) if coming from the south.  At the 3900 South exit, turn left (east) under I-215 and cross Wasatch Boulevard to Jupiter Drive as it curves southward; following it to the four-way stop at 4280 South.  Now turn left (east) onto 4280 South, which turns into Oakview Drive, and then left again (northeast) onto Parkview Drive.  Once on Parkview Drive, turn right (southeast) onto Park Terrace Drive (4260 South), and then right again (east) onto White Way; following it to the parking lot at the end.

View of Neffs Knob near the bottom
of the North Face drainage

Climbing up the Mount Olympus North
Face route – Photo credit: Todd Anderson

The trail ascends from the east edge of the parking lot to a dirt service road that extends just over a half-mile past a water tank to the stream flowing out of Neffs Canyon.  Instead of turning east to follow the trail up Neffs Canyon, continue straight (south) along the former road that leads to the Mount Olympus Spring.  This was one of the places where Mount Olympus Waters, Inc. gets its bottled drinking water, which is a little surprising that dogs are allowed in this area.  Beyond the spring the trail becomes less distinct as it weaves through a forested section past Neffs Knob off to the east.  Not long after passing Neffs Knob, the trail briefly crosses a rocky area before making a short, sudden drop to the right (west) across the Norths Fork drainage.  From this point, the route begins its steep ascent up the North Face drainage to the west by following the rock-slab walls.  About a quarter-mile up the drainage is a minor split, where we tended to veer to the left (southward) through the talus slope area.  Along with wearing proper hiking boots, extreme caution must be exercised in the talus sloped areas to avoid dislodging rocks onto hikers below.  Upon reaching the top of the drainage, or couloir, the ridge on your right drops away and a spectacular view of the northern Salt Lake Valley opens up through the pine trees.  The day we hiked up there, we saw some adult mountain goats clinging to the cliff side along with several kids.  Continuing further along the route, you must drop down (perhaps 50 feet in elevation) into the Apollo Couloir to avoid traversing a rock face with exposure before the final, steep ravine that summits the west ridge.  Once on top of the west ridge, the view to the south opens up before you, and you can progress further as desired to reach the north summit of Mount Olympus at 8,959 feet elevation.  Distance from the Neffs Canyon trailhead to the top of the North Face drainage is approximately 1.6 miles one-way with an additional 0.6 miles to reach the north summit of Mount Olympus.  Elevation gain from the trailhead is about 2,560 feet to the drainage top and 3,350 feet to the north summit.

View of the northern Salt Lake Valley
from the top of the North Face drainage

Mountain goats cling to the cliffs near
the top of the North Face drainage

Mount Olympus south summit from atop
the west ridge – Photo credit: Hugh McGirt

White Rocks (Skull Valley Extension)

South of the Skull Valley Goshute Reservation lies the U.S. Army facility known as Dugway Proving Ground, which was established in 1942 for the testing of biological and chemical weapons.  This testing has often sparked controversy with many of the local residents, who don't want harmful materials in their backyard.  Within a buffer area that separates Dugway from the Goshute reservation sits an interesting geologic formation known as White Rocks.  Three mounds of granite formed part of an ancient, flat-topped volcano with the main formation rising several hundred feet out of the ground.  A dirt road crosses between two of the mounds while the third mound lies about 0.6 miles southwest of the other two.  Hiking difficulty in the White Rocks can range from technical climbs to minor scrambles with minimal exposure.  Several primitive campgrounds are located close to the base of the domes.

To reach the White Rocks area from I-80, take the Rowley/Dugway exit (Exit 77) and turn south on the Skull Valley Road (SR 196) for approximately 29.5 miles.  Take the maintained dirt road to the right (west) just past the small BLM sign that indicates: "White Rocks."  Another approach can be from Rush Valley south of Tooele.  From SR 36, follow SR 199 west through the community of Rush Valley and over Johnson Pass for approximately 14.0 miles to reach Terra.  Beyond Terra about one mile, turn right (west) onto the Lincoln Highway and follow it 5.6 miles to reach the Skull Valley Road (SR 196).  Make another right turn (north) onto the Skull Valley Road for 1.75 miles to arrive at the White Rocks turnoff to the left (west).  Once on the dirt road, follow it for approximately 5.5 miles and take the left fork southward for another three miles or so to reach the formations.  While most vehicles should be able to travel this road with little difficulty, it is best done under dry conditions.  Hikers and campers planning to spend the night are responsible for maintaining the beauty of the landscape.  As a rule of thumb: Leave the place cleaner than you found it.  Keep in mind that no public access is allowed onto the Dugway Proving Ground without specific clearance from the military.

Approaching the White Rock
formations from the east

The back (west) side of the main
White Rock formation

Skull Valley

Skull Valley is a rather remote area of northwestern Utah located about 50 miles west-southwest of Salt Lake City as the crow flies.  Its name is indicative of the harsh, dry conditions that exist today as well as when early pioneers crossed the region on their way to California during the 1800s.  One unique point of interest in Skull Valley is the ghost town of Iosepa (pronounced "yo-see-pa"), which was settled in 1889 by a group of Hawaiian pioneers that converted to the LDS (Mormon) Church in their native islands.  Originally, they had migrated to the Salt Lake area to be near the temple and main body of Church members, but some of the white settlers were not very accepting of their cultural differences.  As a result, they relocated in Skull Valley on what was then rangeland.  After a brief height of glory, Iosepa became a ghost town in 1917 after the Church began constructing a temple in Laie, Hawaii, which instilled a desire for the residents to return to their homeland.  Today the only obvious remains of the town are irrigation ditches, scattered rubble from foundations, and the cemetery plots where an annual celebration is held each Memorial Day.

Iosepa (which means "Joseph") welcome
sign along the Skull Valley Road 

Another point of interest in Skull Valley is the rock formation known as Lone Rock that rises about 250 feet above the valley floor.  Horseshoe Springs also provides a convenient spot to stop, walk around on the boardwalks, and observe fish swimming in the relatively clear waters.  Since the springs are warm (60-70° F. year-round), they never freeze over during the wintertime.  Skull Valley is bounded on the west by the Cedar Mountain Range, which was designated a wilderness area by Congress in late 2005.  No motorized travel is allowed in the wilderness, but hiking opportunities abound, and you will very likely see wild horses roaming along the east foot of the range.

The most common approach to Skull Valley from Salt Lake City is along I-80 about 43 miles west of the north junction of I-15 and I-80.  Take the Rowley/Dugway exit (Exit 77) and turn south onto the Skull Valley Road (SR 196).  While Lone Rock is visible from the freeway, the main entrance into this area is approximately 3.1 miles south of the exit off to the right (west).  It has seen its share of wild parties and junk that people often use for shooting practice, yet a hike to the top offers great views of the surrounding landscape.  The south slope provides the best non-technical route to the top.  Another 6.4 miles beyond the Lone Rock turnoff is the Horseshoe Springs turnoff, which is also off to the right (west).  At around 14.0 miles south of the Rowley/Dugway exit, the turnoff for the Iosepa cemetery lies to the left (southeast) where a dirt road leads to the burial site another mile further.  Continuing along the Skull Valley Road, we turned right (west) onto a dirt road about 3.0 miles beyond the Iosepa cemetery turnoff to access the Cedar Mountains.  Follow this dirt road west for approximately 1.3 miles, which then veers northwestward and crosses a stream bed at about 3.5 miles.  At around 4.4 miles from the highway, take the left (westward) fork and continue at least another 4.5 miles to reach Eightmile Spring off to the right (north).

View of Lone Rock from the east side

The northeast arm of Horseshoe Springs

Parking is available near Eightmile Spring or along the north-south road that basically skirts the wilderness boundary.  Since there are no established trails in the wilderness area, we made our way up a drainage area not far from the spring.  After approximately 2.8 miles of hiking, we began working our way up a ridge that led to the main crest.  Various cliff bands were in this area that seemed daunting, yet we were able to maneuver around them without much difficulty.  Once on top of the main crest, it was a matter of hiking southward to reach the high point of the Cedar Mountains at 7,712 feet elevation.  Total hiking distance from Eightmile Spring to the high point was about 5.5 miles one-way with an elevation gain of just over 3,000 feet.  Be sure to take plenty of water with you as Eightmile Spring was the only source of water we found during the entire hike.  Hiking this mountain range during the spring and autumn seasons is more pleasant as well.

View looking south along the east
side of the Cedar Mountain Range

View looking south towards the
highest point of the Cedar Mountains

Great Salt Lake Art Loop

One of Utah's unique tourist attractions has always been the Great Salt Lake.  Traveling around this body of water and its western desert provides a variety of recreational opportunities that include birding, hiking, mountain biking, sailing, and many other activities.  Though the largest salt water lake in the Western Hemisphere, it is only a small remnant of the much-larger Lake Bonneville in prehistoric times.  Back in the 1890s and early 1900s, the Great Salt Lake was a popular destination for swimming and beach activities – particularly the famed Saltair resort.  Today, most residents living along the Wasatch Front identify the Great Salt Lake with its lake-effect storms, beautiful sunsets, and the occasional stench whenever the wind blows just right.  Much of this smell comes from the decaying algae and brine shrimp waste that form along the shores of the lake.  Out in the middle of the lake there is no significant smell at all.  For the average person traveling through this area, the landscape may become quite dull – to the point of putting some to sleep.  To lessen the effects of this, occasional rest stops have been constructed and certain artists have left their artistic touch in the area.  This post identifies three particular works of art in and around the Great Salt Lake and its western desert.  It is a motorized road trip description rather than the usual hike or trek on foot.

The first work of art along the Great Salt Lake Art Loop is a sculpture on the north side of I-80 about 95 miles west of Salt Lake City.  Called "Metaphor: The Tree of Utah," it stands 87 feet tall and was created by the Swedish artist, Karl Momen, during the 1980s.  It was constructed to bring brilliant color and beauty to a barren, harsh landscape that hindered many travelers during pioneer times.  There is no official exit at milepost 26 of the freeway to reach this "tree in the desert."  Though not recommended by the Utah Highway Patrol, you can pull off the freeway to have a closer look and/or photograph the sculpture, but please exercise extreme caution when doing so.

Metaphor: The Tree of Utah located on
the north side of I-80 near milepost 26

View of the Sun Tunnels looking
towards the south near Lucin, Utah

A more remote work of art in the northern reaches of the Great Salt Lake Desert is the Sun Tunnels near the ghost town of Lucin.  This large-scale artwork was created by the American artist, Nancy Holt, in 1976.  Consisting of four concrete tunnels that are eighteen feet long and nine feet in diameter, the Sun Tunnels are laid out in an open X configuration.  Similar to England's Stonehenge, the tunnels are aligned perfectly to frame the sunrise and sunset during the summer and winter solstices.  Additionally, small holes have been drilled in the sides to form different constellations from the sky as well as unique sunlight patterns on the inside.  To reach the Sun Tunnels from I-80, take the Bonneville Speedway exit (Exit 4) just east of Wendover and turn north along the paved road.  The gas station just off this exit is a good place to stock up on gasoline and snacks – as there are no more gas stations until Snowville.  While most vehicles should be able to drive across the graded dirt roads in this area, it would be wise to check the weather forecast and travel this route only under dry conditions.  An alternative paved route may be taken through Nevada, if necessary, but this adds at least 30 miles additional to the loop.  Approximately 1.2 miles from the exit, take the left (west) fork and continue northwest along the Leppy Pass Road, staying left (west) of the utility building at about 4.5 miles.  The pavement ends just past the cattle guard into Nevada at approximately 7.6 miles, and at about 17.0 miles a second cattle guard is crossed that puts you back into Utah.  This road offers spectacular views of the Pilot Range to the west and the salt flats and lesser mountain ranges to the east.  Near the south tip of the Lucin Hill at approximately 46.0 miles from I-80, turn right (eastward) onto the graded road; following it for about 2.3 miles before turning right again (south) to reach the Sun Tunnels.

Looking through one of the small
holes in the side of the Sun Tunnels

View of the Spiral Jetty taken from
the slope of an adjoining hill

The third and final work of art described in this post is the Spiral Jetty, which is located on the northeast shore of the Great Salt Lake south-southwest of Promontory.  This unique earthen sculpture was constructed in 1970 by the American artist, Robert Smithson.  Over 6,000 tons of black basalt rock and earth were used to construct the counterclockwise coil that measures 1,500 feet long by 15 feet wide.  Depending on the water level of the Great Salt Lake, the sculpture may be submerged at times – so check the conditions of the lake before going for prime viewing.  It is best seen when the water level is below about 4,195 feet elevation.  To reach the Spiral Jetty from the Sun Tunnels, proceed back to the main road near the south tip of the Lucin Hill and turn right (north) towards Lucin and the railroad tracks.  Back in its heyday, Lucin was an oasis in the desert that served as an important water stop for steam locomotives to be replenished.  Today the area is managed for birds and other wildlife by the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources.  Continuing along the road approximately 5.5 miles beyond the railroad tracks, turn right (eastward) onto the paved SR 30 towards Rosette and Park Valley.  This highway continues just over 81 miles through these settlements to reach I-84 not far from the Idaho border.  Arriving at Snowville, you can refuel and take care of any other business necessary to continue the road trip.  From I-84, take the Hansel Valley exit (Exit 16) and turn right (southward) onto the Hansel Valley Road.  After about 4.4 miles, make a left (east) turn next to the farmhouse where the road turns to graded dirt, and continue towards the mountains before heading south again along the foot of the range.  Promontory Summit lies approximately 22 miles south of I-84 along the Hansel Valley route.  This is the site where the completion of the first transcontinental railroad took place back in 1869 that joined our Nation together.  To reach the Spiral Jetty, continue on past Promontory for about 5.6 miles and take the left (south) fork of the road over the cattle guard.  At close to 1.5 miles beyond the first fork, take the right (west) fork and drive the remaining 8.8 miles over the graded dirt road to a parking area near the Spiral Jetty.  Again, most vehicles should be able to travel this route provided it's dry and well maintained.

Close-up view of the Spiral Jetty
taken near the parking area

I-15 is reached from the Spiral Jetty by returning to Promontory and taking the paved road towards the east a little over a mile beyond it.  Driving about 6.7 miles from this point will take you to SR 83, where you then turn right (southward) to reach I-15 near Brigham City some 20 miles distant from there.  Total distance from the north junction of I-15 and I-80 around the Great Salt Lake Art Loop to this same spot again is approximately 407 miles.

Pilot Peak, Nevada

West of the Great Salt Lake across the Bonneville Salt Flats lies a mountain known as Pilot Peak, which is located about 20 miles north of Wendover.  Whether coming from the east or from the west along I-80, this mountain is quite noticeable on the horizon when approaching it.  During pioneer times it served as an important guide for explorers seeking a shorter route through the Great Basin on the way to California.  When the Donner Party crossed the inhospitable expanse of the Great Salt Lake Desert, they found life-saving water from springs at the base of Pilot Peak.  Later it became a reference point for surveying the Nevada-Utah boundary in 1870.  With over 5,700 feet of prominence, steep talus slopes, and no established trails; Pilot Peak makes for a challenging climb that requires most of one day.  It proved to be one of my most difficult hikes when I took it years ago with several others – mainly due to the dry conditions, afternoon heat, and the fact that I ran out of water on the way back down.  Based on my experience, I would recommend taking this hike during the autumn months when temperatures are cooler and take at least one gallon of water per person.  Most of Pilot Peak lies on public land that is administered by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) with the majority of private land located along the west side.

For our hike, we approached the west (Nevada) side of the mountain.  The reasoning behind this was to make our ascent during the cooler morning hours as the mountain shaded us from the sun.  Our starting point was accessed from I-80 by taking the Pilot Road exit (Exit 398) in Nevada and turning right (northeast) on a road that curves and parallels the freeway for approximately 1.5 miles.  Past this point the road curves to more of a north-northeasterly direction where we continued for another 11.1 miles past a quarry located off the right (east) side of the road.  Just past the quarry, we turned right (east) onto an unimproved road and drove about 1.7 miles to a junction where the road forks left (northeast) across a drainage.  Here we took the left road and continued as far as possible towards the mountain before parking.  To reach the Miners Canyon starting point from I-80, take the Bonneville Speedway exit (Exit 4) in Utah and turn north along the paved road for approximately 1.2 miles to the junction.  Take the left (west) fork and continue northwest along the Leppy Pass Road, staying left (west) of the utility building at about 4.5 miles and crossing the cattle guard into Nevada at about 7.6 miles where the pavement ends.  At approximately 17.0 miles from I-80 just before the second cattle guard crossing, turn left (northwest) onto the unimproved road and continue as far as possible towards Miners Canyon and Pilot Peak.

Pilot Peak viewed from the west
(Nevada) side near our starting point

Reaching the top of the
southwest ridge of Pilot Peak

From where we parked our vehicle, we followed the road a little further until it faded out.  Beyond this point we made our way along a drainage that veered to the left (north) of a less-obvious drainage.  As we got further up the canyon, the process became more tedious as we worked our way through bushes, trees, and rock.  We kept an eye out for possible rattlesnakes hiding in the thickets, but remarkably we never came across any.  In the upper reaches of the canyon we encountered talus slopes, which made for slow going up the mountainside.  Here it becomes essential to wear proper hiking boots and use extreme caution when crossing the loose rock to avoid sprained ankles and injury to other hikers.  A much-needed rest came when we reached the top of the southwest ridge at just over 9,000 feet elevation.  Upon reaching this point, spectacular views to the east and southeast were unveiled before our eyes.  Our climb continued up the ridge for a ways, and then we traversed to the right (east) some to avoid a rugged rocky section with exposure not far from the summit.  It was early afternoon when we finally reached the 10,716-foot summit of Pilot Peak.  Along with a summit registry, there were portions of rock walls that were most likely part of a U.S. Coast & Geodetic survey station.  While the west approach was beneficial for us during the cooler morning hours, it became quite hot and miserable for us as we descended during the afternoon.  With the sun beating more directly upon us, we found ourselves drinking just as much, if not more water than we were when we were going up.  Before I knew it, I had run out of water about two-thirds of the way down, and by the time we reached our vehicle I was quite thirsty and close to having heat exhaustion.  So much for hiking this mountain in July!  Distance from where we parked to the summit of Pilot Peak is approximately 3.5 miles one-way with an elevation gain of about 5,000 feet.  The Miners Canyon route is about one mile shorter (2.5 miles one-way) with an elevation gain of approximately 4,450 feet.

Pilot Peak as viewed from the
top of the southwest ridge

At the summit of Pilot Peak next to the
summit mailbox – Photo credit: Joe Harline