I thought I would jump off the beaten path for a post and describe a hike that I haven't been on yet, but wouldn't mind attempting if I were ever in the area again. The place I'm referring to is the Nevado de Toluca area of south-central Mexico, which is located about 80 kilometers (50 miles) west-southwest of Mexico City. While I have been to Mexico City before, I was with a package tour then, and I didn't have the time or means to take leave for very long. Besides, I knew practically nothing about this mountain at the time and I understand very little Spanish to this day. So what aroused my interest in this volcanic mountain? I became fascinated with the two lakes in its caldera, which sit at an approximate elevation of 4,200 meters (13,780 feet), and the fact that they were known ceremonial and sacrificial sites during pre-Hispanic times. Much of the west rim of the crater also rises above 4,500 meters (14,764 feet) elevation. This is higher than any point in the Lower 48 United States, yet low enough for not having to contend with much perpetual snow. However considered, it would be a place where acclimatizing to the altitude is necessary for "lowlanders" to do any serious hiking. The nearby city of Toluca (officially named Toluca de Lerdo) sits at 2,667 meters (8,750 feet) above sea level
– so spending a few days there should help acclimatize to the higher altitude. In my case, I would also take a partner with me that understands Spanish much better than I do.
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Approaching Nevado de Toluca from the
northwest – Photo credit: Rob Woodall |
According to Google, the directions for reaching Nevado de Toluca are as follows: From Paseo Tollocan (Highway 15) in Toluca, take Paseo Cristobal Colon southward for approximately 1.9 kilometers (1.2 miles) and then turn right (west) onto Calzada del Pacifico. Calzada del Pacifico eventually turns into Carretera Ciudad Altamirano-Toluca (Highway 134). Continue westward along Highway 134 for about 13.4 kilometers (8.3 miles) and then turn left (southward) onto Highway 10 to Raices at the sign indicating the park and Volcan de Nevado de Toluca. Follow this highway approximately 7.6 kilometers (4.7 miles) through Raices and veer to the left (east) on the gravel road leading up to the volcano. Drive along the gravel road for another 3.5 kilometers (2.2 miles) to a fork where you will again veer to the left around a hairpin turn. This road continues to climb the mountainside above the timberline to the trailhead, which is approximately another 10.5 kilometers (6.5 miles) beyond the hairpin turn. It used to go all the way into the crater, but it has now been closed to motor vehicles to preserve the environment. At the trailhead are several dwellings with sleeping space that can be rented for further acclimatizing to the altitude.
From the trailhead, the pathway climbs approximately 130 meters (427 feet) in the first kilometer (0.6 mile) to reach a saddle along the crater rim, which offers a spectacular view of the surrounding rim and lakes below. The larger lake off to the right (west) is called Lago de El Sol (Lake of the Sun) while the smaller lake slightly to the left (south) is Lago de La Luna (Lake of the Moon). A large lava dome separates the two lakes, and rises about 130 meters above Lake of the Sun. Past the saddle, the trail descends approximately 90 meters (295 feet) to a point near the Lake of the Moon shoreline and then continues around the lava dome to a hut-like structure near the Lake of the Sun shoreline. Along the southwest rim is the highest point of Nevado de Toluca, which is Pico del Fraile (Friar's Peak) at approximately 4,660 meters (15,288 feet) elevation. Reaching the summit is most commonly achieved by ascending up the east ridge from the main trail
– where some scrambling over rock is involved under dry conditions. November through March provides the best time to hike Nevado de Toluca as this is the dry season in the area. Keep in mind that temperatures in the crater are cold year-round, and that frost and snow can occur during any month. Along with warm clothing, hikers to this area will often bring crampons and an ice axe as a precaution.
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The trailhead area of Nevado de Toluca –
Photo credit: Stefan Kontradowitz |
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View of structure and Lake of the Sun
from the southeast side – Photo credit:
Jomillsjo via Wikipedia |
