South Willow Lake

One of the prettiest gems in the Stansbury Mountains is South Willow Lake.  Tucked away in an unnamed glacial cirque, this alpine lake is flanked by the rock faces of North and South Willow Peaks (not official names).  From a hiking perspective, South Willow Lake can only be seen from its shoreline, or from the surrounding viewpoints.  It provides a great retreat to a secluded spot for a picnic lunch, camping, fishing, or to simply get away from it all.

There are two main routes to access South Willow Lake.  A more direct, yet steeper route begins at the Medina Flat Trailhead of South Willow Canyon, which is just above the Boy Scout Campground to the north of the main road.  This route crosses a ridge into the Mining Fork of South Willow Canyon – where the drainage is basically followed up to the lake.  The route that I took however begins at the Loop Campground in South Willow Canyon along with other hikes in this mountain range.  To reach the trailhead where I started, follow the same directions listed in the previous post on North and South Willow Peaks.

View of the approach to South Willow
Lake below the unnamed cirque

The trail begins near the restrooms at the top of the Loop Campground and enters the Deseret Peak Wilderness Area several hundred feet beyond the information sign.  Once the trail crosses the streambed and splits at approximately 0.7 miles, take the right fork towards the Pockets Fork of South Willow Canyon.  Deseret Peak comes into view when the Dry Lake Fork streambed is crossed after another 0.6 miles, and the view basically remains unobstructed until the crest of the ridge is reached before Pockets Fork.  At approximately 1.4 miles beyond the first trail split, the trail splits again in the Pockets Fork drainage – where you will continue straight (northward) towards South Willow Lake.  From this point the trail terraces the mountainside around a second ridge and then drops into the Mining Fork drainage.  After crossing the Mining Fork streambed, the trail splits a third time where the left fork is taken (westward) for the final half-mile climb to the lake.  This stretch is the steepest part of the hike, which ascends about 460 feet to reach the 9,140-foot elevation of South Willow Lake.  Distance from the trailhead to South Willow Lake is approximately 3.6 miles one-way with an elevation gain of about 2,000 feet (taking into account a 460-foot gain after a 260-foot loss).

South Willow Lake as viewed
near the north shoreline

South Willow Lake as viewed
near the southeast extension

North & South Willow Peaks

North and South Willow Peaks are not official names as published on the USGS topographic maps of the Deseret Peak vicinity, yet they are known as such by many of the local residents.  Some years ago, I submitted these names to the U.S. Board on Geographic Names in an attempt to have these points in the Stansbury Range officially identified.  Since they are located in a congressionally designated wilderness area, however, my request was rejected by the Forest Service.  Their reasoning was to "minimize the human impact on the wilderness cultural layer."  With a limited understanding of wilderness law, I was disappointed at this ruling.  Nonetheless, North and South Willow Peaks offer spectacular hiking in an area that is seldom visited for the more-popular Deseret Peak area to the south.  As a result, there is no established trail along the summit ridge beyond the Pockets Fork Trail to these two summits.  Only 350 to 500 feet lower than the summit of Deseret Peak, a visit to North and South Willow Peaks will reward you with great views of the surrounding landscape.

To reach the trailhead for North and South Willow Peaks, take the Tooele City exit (Exit 99) off of I-80 onto SR 36 if coming from the east, or the Grantsville exit (Exit 84) off of I-80 onto SR 138 if coming from the west.  Once off the freeway on the Tooele exit, continue on SR 36 for about 3.0 miles and turn right (west) onto SR 138 towards Grantsville.  Follow SR 138 (approximately 11.0 miles) through downtown Grantsville and turn left (south) onto West Street near the west edge of town.  From the Grantsville exit, follow SR 138 for approximately 9.0 miles and turn right (south) onto West Street near the beginning of town just after the highway curves left (east).  Head south for about 5.2 miles on West Street, which turns into Mormon Trail, and then turn right (westward) onto the road leading to South Willow Canyon.  This road is paved to the forest boundary (approximately 3.3 miles) and turns to a maintained dirt road the remaining distance to the Loop Campground.  Check with the Forest Service for road conditions around the Upper and Lower Narrow areas during seasons of heavy runoff.

View of North Willow Peak from
the summit of South Willow Peak

View of South Willow and Deseret Peaks
from the summit of North Willow Peak

The trail begins at the top of the Loop Campground near the restrooms and enters the Deseret Peak Wilderness Area several hundred feet beyond the information sign.  At approximately 0.7 miles, the trail crosses the streambed and splits – where you will fork to the right towards the Pockets Fork of South Willow Canyon.  About 0.6 miles after the trail split, the Dry Lake Fork streambed is crossed where there is a great view of the northeast face of Deseret Peak.  This view basically remains unobstructed until the crest of the ridge is reached before Pockets Fork.  After approximately 1.4 miles beyond the first split, the trail splits again – where you will fork to the left up the Pockets Fork drainage to the summit ridge.  Once on the summit ridge, make your way to the right (north) up the ridgeline along what appears to be a main trail, but soon turns into a series of game trails further up.  I tend to stay on the west slope of the ridge where there is less exposure.  About 0.35 miles along the summit ridge is a knoll, which is bypassed to reach the true summit of South Willow Peak at 10,685 feet elevation.  To reach North Willow Peak, continue northward along the ridgeline for about another 0.8 miles to the point at 10,521 feet elevation.  This involves a drop of 450 feet in elevation and a regain of about 300 feet to reach this point.  During the time I did it, I came across a rattlesnake just before I reached the North Willow Peak summit – perhaps the highest elevation I have ever observed a rattlesnake.  Enjoy your stay, but be sure to allow plenty of time to return to the Pockets Fork Trail and back down since tedious route-finding and bushwhacking may be necessary, especially from the north summit.  Distance from the trailhead to the summit of South Willow Peak is approximately 3.3 miles one-way with an elevation gain of 3,267 feet.  North Willow Peak is approximately 4.1 miles one-way with an elevation gain of about 3.567 feet (taking into account a 300-foot regain after a 450-foot loss).

Deseret Peak

Deseret Peak is perhaps my favorite hike to an 11,000-foot peak.  Situated approximately 45 miles southwest of Salt Lake City (as the crow flies), Deseret Peak sees fewer hikers than the more popular peaks of the Wasatch Range.  In 1984, over 25,000 acres of land in the Stansbury Mountains were designated as the Deseret Peak Wilderness Area by the U.S. Congress.  Its unique beauty is beyond anything you would normally expect to see in Tooele (pronounced "too-ill-uh") County.  While guide books often describe the remains of an old heliograph station at the summit, further research since this posting reveals that it was actually a U.S. Coast & Geodetic station used in the early surveying of the Western United States (refer to first comment below).  The old rock walls can provide some shelter from the wind on breezy days.  No specialized equipment is needed to climb Deseret Peak during snow-free conditions.

To reach the trailhead for Deseret Peak from I-80, take the Tooele City exit (Exit 99) onto SR 36 if coming from the east, or the Grantsville exit (Exit 84) onto SR 138 if coming from the west.  Once off the freeway on the Tooele exit, follow SR 36 for about 3.0 miles and turn right (west) onto SR 138 towards Grantsville.  Follow SR 138 (approximately 11.0 miles) through downtown Grantsville and turn left (south) onto West Street near the west edge of town.  From the Grantsville exit, follow SR 138 for approximately 9.0 miles and turn right (south) onto West Street near the beginning of town just after the highway curves left (east).  Head south for about 5.2 miles on West Street, which turns into Mormon Trail, and then turn right (westward) onto the road leading to South Willow Canyon.  This road is paved to the forest boundary (approximately 3.3 miles) and turns to a maintained dirt road the remaining distance to the Loop Campground.  Two unique features in South Willow Canyon are the Upper and Lower Narrow areas, which often attract rock climbers.  During seasons with heavy runoff, the road has sometimes been washed out in these areas from high water – so check with the Forest Service and plan accordingly.

View of Deseret Peak taken from
the east viewpoint area (see map)

The trail begins near the restrooms at the top of the Loop Campground and enters the wilderness area after several hundred feet or so.  Since horses are allowed on the trail, watch out for the occasional "surprises" left behind.  At approximately 0.7 miles, the trail crosses the streambed and splits; the left trail ascends up the Mill Fork of South Willow Canyon while the right trail ascends over a ridge into the Pockets Fork of South Willow Canyon.  If you're planning to hike the entire loop, it matters not really which direction you take to reach Deseret Peak.  The shortest route, however, and the one I normally take is the Mill Fork route, which continues for another 2.2 miles past the junction point to a saddle along the summit ridge.  Upon reaching the end of the canyon, the trail becomes steeper and several switchbacks are encountered before reaching the saddle at just over 10,000 feet elevation.  On the saddle with time permitting, a brief hike (perhaps two thirds of a mile over and back) can be taken on relatively level ground to a viewpoint off to the east where great views of Deseret Peak and points east can be had.  Continuing on to Deseret Peak, the main trail forks to the right (west) up a steep slope, and then veers to the south.  Snow can sometimes remain in this area well into the summer months – so plan accordingly.  Once the south shoulder of the summit ridge is reached, the trail veers westward again and climbs near the top of two north-facing couloirs, or steep gullies in the mountainside.  From this point only a short climb remains to the 11,031-foot summit of Deseret Peak.  Distance from the trailhead to the summit of Deseret Peak is approximately 3.7 miles one-way via the Mill Fork route, or approximately 4.3 miles one-way via the Pockets Fork route.  Elevation gain to the summit is 3,613 feet from the trailhead.

A rock face looms ahead near
the summit of Deseret Peak

Snow at the top of the twin couloirs
near the summit of Deseret Peak

Boy Scouts pose at an old survey
station at the summit of Deseret Peak

Grandview Peak

Grandview Peak is not a popular climb among the peaks of the Wasatch Range, mainly due to its remoteness and difficulty in accessing.  In the upper reaches of City Creek Canyon along the east slope of Grandview Peak's southern ridge, there is evidence of a massive rock slide that some scientists believe was triggered by an earthquake.  Other than this, there are no particular characteristics that make this mountain stand out from the other, more popular peaks, yet it sits as the highest point in Salt Lake County north of Parleys Canyon.  The hike described here involves mostly ridgeline hiking along part of the Great Western Trail, which technically extends from Canada to Mexico.  Since most of the trail is unshaded from the sun, it is important to use sunscreen and to bring plenty of liquids (at least one gallon) with you as there are no real sources of drinking water along the route.

To reach the starting point for this hike from Bountiful, take the 400 North (Exit 317) off of I-15 if coming from the south, or the 500 West (Exit 317) off of I-15 if coming from the north.  Turn east (towards the mountains) onto 400 North and stay in the right lane to continue past Main Street.  At the stop sign, turn left (north) onto 1300 East, and then right onto 600 North up the hillside.  Take another right onto Skyline Drive and follow it nearly a half-mile to Eagle Ridge Drive.  Now turn right onto Eagle Ridge Drive and follow it to the large parking lot near the end of the street.  For those who feel confident in taking their vehicles on dirt roads, take the paved road (which turns to dirt after several hundred yards) to the left of the parking lot immediately below the huge "B" for Bountiful.  Follow this road (also known as Skyline Drive) all the way up the mountainside to the saddle along the Davis-Morgan County line.  At approximately 8.3 miles from the parking lot, continue straight on the road past the fork to the left (west).  Just beyond the fork, the road makes a hairpin turn towards the south past another parking area.  While this section of road becomes less maintained than the previous stretch, you should be able to drive carefully on it for about 3.4 miles (past the gas pipeline crossing) to a parking point along the north edge of a wooded area.  The road actually continues about another 0.9 miles further to a trailhead, but this last stretch is quite rugged for vehicles.

Grandview Peak as viewed along
the Sessions Mountain ridgeline

Survey monument cap at the
summit of Grandview Peak

Hiking along the unimproved road now, the route descends approximately 250 feet elevation into a small basin before ascending slightly to a knoll on the other side.  It then descends again to reach the trailhead at approximately 8,260 feet elevation.  The trail continues its way through mostly wooded country to reach the summit ridge of Sessions Mountain at approximately 9,000 feet elevation.  From this ridge, Grandview Peak comes into view one-and-a-half miles to the south-southeast.  As the trail heads generally east from this point, it drops about 400 feet to a saddle and then regains this same elevation on the other side.  The entire route along the East Sessions Mountain ridge (about 1.1 miles) is unshaded from the sun.  At a point near where three counties meet, the final leg of the route involves another drop of about 250 feet before the final ascent to the 9,410-foot summit of Grandview Peak is made.  While the initial elevation gain from the starting point to the summit of Grandview Peak is only 930 feet, several decreases and regains in elevation push this value to approximately 2,000 feet.  Total distance is approximately 5.0 miles one-way.

View looking southwest towards
the summit of Grandview Peak

Ferguson Canyon & Storm Mountain

Ferguson Canyon provides an enjoyable place to hike that's not as crowded as some of the trails up Big Cottonwood Canyon.  It is a popular destination for rock climbers to come and scale the cliffs near the mouth of the canyon.  Since dogs are allowed here, they often join their masters on the outdoor activities.  Further up the canyon, the trail switchbacks up the north ridge to an overlook of the Salt Lake Valley.  An eye-catching feature along the south rim of Ferguson Canyon is a rock formation known as the Hounds Tooth.  At the end of the canyon on the north ridge is Storm Mountain, which is actually a terminus point of the ridge extending northwest of Twin Peaks.  Northeast of Storm Mountain is Stairs Gulch where avalanches notoriously occur during the winter and early spring seasons.

To reach the Ferguson Canyon trailhead from Wasatch Boulevard, turn east (towards the mountains) onto Prospector Drive (7535 South).  Take an immediate right turn and continue south for approximately one-third of a mile to Timberline Drive (7780 South).  Turn left (east) on Timberline Drive and park along the right-side of the road near the beginning of the dirt service road.  Hike the service road northeastward past the water tank to reach the trailhead.  The trail makes a brief descent before ascending up Ferguson Canyon.  Upon reaching the rock climbing area just beyond the mouth of the canyon, the trail becomes a maze of other trails leading to various climbing sites.  Stay generally close to the streambed for the main trail through this area.  At approximately 1.2 miles from the starting point, the trail switchbacks several times for about 0.3 miles to an overlook of the Salt Lake Valley.  This is where I began my arduous climb up the south rim of the canyon to reach the Hounds Tooth.  While I'm not recommending this route as the best route to climb the Hounds Tooth, it was the most feasible for me at the time.  The slope is quite steep, and there were times when I had to cling to the shrubbery I was bushwhacking through to keep from sliding down the mountainside.  At the point when I was ready to abandon my wild attempt, I reached the top of the rim northwest of the Hounds Tooth.  On more level ground now with the goal in sight, I more or less made a direct course to the base of the formation.  The final obstacle came in climbing to the top of the rock without putting myself in too much danger.  After careful study, I followed a sloping ledge that seemed to be heavily vegetated near the south end of the formation.  Through careful maneuvering with some exposure, I was able to reach the 8,136-foot summit of Hounds Tooth.  Distance from the Ferguson Canyon starting point to the Hounds Tooth summit is approximately 1.9 miles one-way (based on the route I took) with an elevation gain of 2,886 feet.

Rock towers along the trail near
the Salt Lake Valley overlook

West face of the Hounds Tooth with
yellow line showing my general route

To continue on to Storm Mountain, follow the trail up the switchbacks past the Salt Lake Valley overlook.  At around 2.4 miles, the trail steepens for about 0.4 miles to reach a meadow area at approximately 8,300 feet elevation.  Beyond the meadow the trail becomes indistinguishable, and you make your way towards the pyramid-shaped peak on the left (north), which is Storm Mountain.  Near the base of the peak the route becomes steeper for a final scramble to the 9,524-foot summit of Storm Mountain.  During the time I did it, I looked across the Salt Lake Valley to see a thunderstorm looming on the west side.  Fearful of lightning, I finished a quick lunch and made my way off the Storm Mountain ridge.  While I got wet from rain a few times on the way down Ferguson Canyon, I never encountered any close lightning strikes.  What a coincidence to get caught in a storm on Storm Mountain!  Distance from the Ferguson Canyon starting point to the summit of Storm Mountain is approximately 3.5 miles one-way with an elevation gain of 4,274 feet.

The pyramidal shape of Storm Mountain
as viewed from the meadow area

View of an approaching thunderstorm
near the summit of Storm Mountain

Broads Fork Meadows & Twin Peaks

The hike described here can range from relatively easy to rather difficult depending on your choosing.  For a pleasant hike to an area where there are impressive views of the surrounding peaks along with the soothing sound of flowing water, the Broads Fork Meadows is the place to go.  It provides a great place to have a picnic lunch and to simply get away from the hustle-bustle of city life for awhile.  The Broads Fork Canyon is also the main access to Twin Peaks, which are the highest points along the Cottonwood Ridge, separating Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons, and overlooking the Salt Lake Valley.  While these vantage points provide spectacular views of the valley below along with other points in the Wasatch Range, anyone attempting to climb the Broads Fork Twins should be in top physical condition and plan for a long day.

View of Dromedary, Sunrise, and part of
Twin Peaks from the lower meadow
area – Photo credit: Eric Willhite

To reach the Broads Fork trailhead from the Salt Lake Valley, take the 6200 South (Exit 6) off of I-215 and turn right (at the light) onto Wasatch Boulevard (SR 190).  At Fort Union Boulevard (7200 South), turn left (east) to go up Big Cottonwood Canyon towards the Brighton and Solitude Ski Resorts.  At approximately 4.5 miles up the canyon, the "Mill B Trailhead" sign appears to your right (south) at the bottom of what's known as the S-Curve.  Parking is available near the trailhead, or a second parking lot is available in the upper bend of the S-Curve.  Early arrivals during weekdays tend to guarantee a parking spot in the parking lot.  The Broads Fork trail begins near the west corner of the lower parking lot and makes a moderately steep climb westward to an overlook at about 0.3 miles.  Near the overlook, it enters the Twin Peaks Wilderness Area and levels out some as it veers to the left (south) into Broads Fork Canyon.  The trail eventually crosses to the west side of the stream where the climb becomes steep in places until the lower meadow area is reached at approximately 8,220 feet elevation.  Just before the meadow, the trail splits with the left (east) fork leading to a large pond.  Distance from the Broads Fork trailhead to the large pond in the lower meadow area is approximately 2.3 miles one-way with an elevation gain of approximately 2,040 feet.

Beyond the pond, the trail leading towards Twin Peaks becomes less distinct, and may at times disappear.  Continue hiking in the direction of the intermittent streambed, which may involve several stream crossings depending on the time of year.  Eventually, a terraced slope will begin to rise to the left (east) of the streambed.  This rather steep slope leads to an upper meadow area that levels out at about 9,600 feet elevation.  Here is a good spot to rest before pressing onward.  From the upper meadow, the route becomes a scramble over seemingly endless rock towards the saddle to the southwest.  Snow often remains in this area well into the summer months, and it is wise to carry along some crampons and an ice axe should you need them.  When walking on the snow, however, be aware of hidden voids that may collapse beneath you.  The terrain becomes steeper as you approach the saddle with various small cliff bands to work around.  Once the 10,800-foot saddle is reached, you can rest assured that the most grueling part of the climb is behind you.  Continuing northwest along the saddle ridge, you will run into one more obstacle during the final ascent.  It is a sloping rock wall on the Little Cottonwood side of the ridge with a one-foot irregular ledge spanning most of the way across it.  At the end of the ledge is a crack, perhaps 30 feet high, where there are holding points to wedge your hands and feet to pull yourself up.  This can be accomplished at a slow, steady pace if you're not too frightened of heights.  Beyond the crack, it's a standard scramble the remaining distance to the 11,330-foot summit of East Twin Peak.  The east summit is only two feet higher than the west summit, and they are approximately 0.14 miles hiking distance from each other.  While some sources place the one-way distance as high as 5.0 miles, based on my calculations, it is approximately 4.5 miles one-way from the Broads Fork trailhead to the summit of Twin Peaks.  Elevation gain from the trailhead is 5,130 feet.

West Twin Peak from the summit of
East Twin Peak

The wall & crack area on the
final ascent of Twin Peaks

East Twin Peak from the summit of
West Twin Peak

Clayton Peak

One of the easiest 10,000-foot peaks to climb in the Wasatch Range is Clayton Peak at the end of Big Cottonwood Canyon.  This peak straddles the Salt Lake-Wasatch County line near the upper terminus of the Great Western Express ski lift at the Brighton Resort.  It is one of the few vantage points where six world-class ski resorts can be viewed at once.  Clayton Peak also offers spectacular views of the Heber Valley, Mount Timpanogos, and the Uinta Mountains to the east.  During the time we went up, there happened to be a team of Varsity Scouts at the summit, signaling other scouts with mirrors on some of the surrounding peaks.  Clayton Peak can be hiked from basically two starting points; the Lake Mary-Catherine Pass trailhead near the southeast edge of the parking lot at Brighton Ski Resort, and the summit at Guardsman Pass to the north of Clayton Peak.

To reach the Lake Mary-Catherine Pass trailhead from the Salt Lake Valley, take the 6200 South (Exit 6) off of I-215 and turn right (at the light) onto Wasatch Boulevard (SR 190).  At Fort Union Boulevard (7200 South), turn left (east) to go up Big Cottonwood Canyon towards the Brighton and Solitude Ski Resorts.  Continue driving all the way to the end of the canyon to the Brighton Ski Resort parking area (about 14.6 miles).  The trail begins at an information board not far from some resort structures.  During the first part of the climb, various service roads that lace through the area will be encountered, making it easy to become sidetracked if you're not paying attention to the general trail path.  At around 0.8 miles the trail splits; the left fork goes towards Dog Lake (not the Dog Lake described in the previous post) and the right fork goes to Lake Mary.  If more time is available, the extra quarter-mile hike to Lake Mary is certainly worth the effort.  To continue on to Clayton Peak, however, the left fork towards Dog Lake is taken.  This route continues through a generally forested area for about 1.3 miles to reach Snake Creek Pass, where the Heber Valley area comes into view.  Follow the service road that leads northwestward towards the base of Clayton Peak.  Upon reaching the base, the trail picks up again for a rocky ascent through a series of switchbacks to the 10,721-foot summit.  Distance from the Lake Mary-Catherine Pass trailhead to Clayton Peak is approximately 2.7 miles one-way with an elevation gain of approximately 1,950 feet.

Clayton Peak as viewed from
Snake Creek Pass

At the summit of Clayton Peak with
Mount Timpanogos directly behind me –
Photo credit: Joe Harline

For those interested in climbing Clayton Peak from Guardsman Pass, the road to Guardsman Pass splits to the left (east) from the main highway at about 13.9 miles up Big Cottonwood Canyon.  Follow this road through several switchbacks for approximately 3.1 miles to reach Guardsman Pass at 9,700 feet elevation.  The trail from this direction ascends a steep ridge towards the southwest, and involves skirting around the right (west) side of a false summit (10420) to reach Clayton Peak.  Distance from Guardsman Pass to Clayton Peak is approximately 1.4 miles one-way with an elevation gain of 1,021 feet.

Dog Lake & Lake Desolation

Another easy to moderate hike up Big Cottonwood Canyon is the Mill D North Fork trail to Dog Lake and Lake Desolation.  This is a popular area for mountain bikers, particularly on the even-numbered calendar days, so keep an eye out for them and be considerate.  Weekdays are generally less crowded than the weekends to hike on the trail.  During the winter months, it is not unusual to see snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in the area.  Dog Lake and Lake Desolation are approximately 2.5 miles hiking distance from each other, and can be hiked within the same trip given sufficient time.

The trailhead at Mill D North Fork is reached from the Salt Lake Valley by taking the 6200 South (Exit 6) off of I-215 and turning right (at the light) onto Wasatch Boulevard (SR 190).  At Fort Union Boulevard (7200 South), turn left (east) to go up Big Cottonwood Canyon towards the Brighton and Solitude Ski Resorts.  Continue driving for approximately 9.0 miles up the canyon to the Mill D North Fork turn-out area located left (north) of the highway across from the Jordan Pines turn-off.  The trail ascends Reynolds Gulch very briefly before veering to the right (eastward) to curve around the mountain towards Mill D North Fork Canyon.  Resort homes will appear across the stream near the mouth of the canyon while approaching it.  In the canyon beyond the resort home area, the trail reaches the Mill D North Fork streambed, which varies in water flow depending on the season.  After approximately 1.7 miles the trail splits; the left trail going to Dog Lake (another 0.6 miles) while the right trail goes to Lake Desolation (another 1.9 miles).  A spring lies downhill from the point where the trail splits.

Dog Lake as viewed from the north; dogs

are allowed at Dog Lake from Mill Creek

Sign where the trail splits to
Dog Lake and Lake Desolation



The trail to Dog Lake ascends a moderately steep drainage that levels out some just before reaching the lake at approximately 8,735 feet elevation.  Unlike most surrounding lakes in the Wasatch Range, Dog Lake lies in the midst of a forest instead of a cirque.  While dogs are permitted at this lake, they can only be brought in from the Mill Creek side.  No dogs are allowed in Big Cottonwood Canyon due to the area being a vital watershed for the Salt Lake Valley.  Anyone caught with a dog beyond the warning signs near the south perimeter of Dog Lake could face a hefty fine.  Distance from the Mill D North Fork trailhead to Dog Lake is approximately 2.3 miles one-way with an elevation gain of approximately 1,450 feet.

Continuing along the trail to Lake Desolation (or Desolation Lake to some), the route makes a moderately steep climb northward and then levels out some after veering in more of an easterly direction.  Occasional meadows appear along this stretch and the surrounding peaks become more visible the closer you get to Lake Desolation.  A final climb comes about 0.5 miles before the lake while ascending the northwest rim of the basin where the lake lies.  The trail continues beyond Lake Desolation to join with the Great Western Trail, which provide spectacular views of the surrounding landscape.  From the northwest rim, a descent of about 50 feet is made to reach the shore of the lake at approximately 9,200 feet elevation.  Distance from the Mill D North Fork trailhead to Lake Desolation is approximately 3.6 miles one-way with an elevation gain of a little less than 2,000 feet.

Approaching Lake Desolation
from the northwest

Warning sign near the south perimeter of
Dog Lake – warning of no dogs or horses

Gobblers Knob & Mount Raymond

For those desiring a more moderate hike, the trail up Butler Fork to Gobblers Knob and Mount Raymond achieves this objective.  These two peaks are the highest points along the ridge that separates Mill Creek Canyon from Big Cottonwood Canyon – Gobblers Knob being a mere five feet higher than Mount Raymond.  This ridge forms part of the boundary of the Mount Olympus Wilderness Area, which currently excludes the Alexander Basin area to the north.  Gobblers Knob and Mount Raymond are often climbed within the same hike since the two summits are within 1.5 miles of each other.  While this area can be hiked anytime of the year, autumn is a particularly delightful time due to the cooler temperatures and the leaves changing color.

To reach the trailhead at Butler Fork from the Salt Lake Valley, take the 6200 South (Exit 6) off of I-215 and turn right (at the light) onto Wasatch Boulevard (SR 190).  At Fort Union Boulevard (7200 South), turn left (east) to go up Big Cottonwood Canyon towards the Brighton and Solitude Ski Resorts.  Continue driving for approximately 8.2 miles up the canyon to the Butler Fork turn-out area located left (north) of the highway.  On most days there should be plenty of parking in this area.  The trail follows Butler Fork for the first 1/2 mile before forking left (west) up a gully to a ridge overlooking Mill A Gulch.  Several switchbacks are encountered before reaching the ridge.  Once on the ridge, the trail levels out some until Mill A Basin at the foot of Mount Raymond.  From here the trail forks right towards Baker Pass (north) at approximately 9,350 feet elevation.  At the pass, you can choose which peak you want to climb first.  I chose Gobblers Knob first because of its slightly longer distance to reach the higher summit.  There are actually two summits on Gobblers Knob; the southwest summit is 22 feet lower than the higher 10,246-foot northeast summit.  For climbing Mount Raymond, the ridge is a little more exposed and requires more careful traversing to reach the 10,241-foot summit.  Distance from the trailhead to Gobblers Knob is approximately 4.1 miles one-way with an elevation gain of 3,126 feet.  To Mount Raymond, the distance is approximately 3.9 miles one-way with an elevation gain of 3,121 feet.

The twin summits of Gobblers Knob

from the summit of Mount Raymond

Mount Raymond (left) and the Salt Lake
Valley from the summit of Gobblers Knob



Donut Falls

A favorite hike for many that is suitable for the entire family is Donut (often spelled Doughnut) Falls, which is up the Mill D South Fork of Big Cottonwood Canyon.  It is a great hike for individuals who don't want to spend a lot of time necessary for longer, more strenuous hikes.  Unfortunately, the falls have lost some of their pristine beauty in recent years due to rock fall in the area.  Donut Falls is so named because the water cascades through a hole in the rock that looks like a donut hole when viewed from below.  In 2007 the City of Salt Lake purchased Donut Falls from private ownership along with about 144 acres of surrounding land in an effort to protect the city's watershed.

To access the Donut Falls trailhead from the Salt Lake Valley, take the 6200 South (Exit 6) off of I-215 and turn right (at the light) onto Wasatch Boulevard (SR 190).  At Fort Union Boulevard (7200 South), turn left (east) to go up Big Cottonwood Canyon towards the Brighton and Solitude Ski Resorts.  Continue driving for approximately 9.0 miles up the canyon to the Jordan Pines picnic area, and turn right (south) onto the paved turn-off.  The trailhead is at the south end of a parking lot about one mile down this turn-off – past the Jordan Pines picnic area and some private property.  A well-marked trail covers the first 0.4 miles of the hike before it crosses a stream to an old dirt road.  Follow this road upward for about 1/4 mile or so until the trail veers to the left (east) a little towards the narrowing canyon.  Upon reaching the stream area, a small steep slope into the streambed is encountered, which will require a helping hand for young children to get across.  The viewing area just below Donut Falls is approximately 7,820 feet in elevation.  Hiking in the grotto area and around the waterfall itself is discouraged due to the slippery wet conditions, the dislodging of rocks, and causing further damage to the unique character of the waterfall.  Distance is approximately 0.75 miles one-way with an elevation gain of 360 feet from the parking lot.

A group of young women hike in
the area just below Donut Falls

Close-up of Donut Falls – Photo
credit: Adventuretainment TV

Hiking and Trekking at Different Elevations

Elevation is the general term used when referencing points on the earth's surface above or below mean sea level.  Though the terms "altitude" and "elevation" are often used interchangeably, "altitude" refers more to the distance of an object (such as an airplane) above the earth's surface.  Conditions are much different at higher elevations on the earth's surface when compared to sea level.  The air is thinner, temperatures are nearly always much colder, and the vegetation looks different – provided there is any vegetation at all.  In places near the earth's equator where it is typically warm, there is perpetual snow on some of the mountain peaks of Africa and South America due to the high elevation.  The city of Cerro de Pasco in Peru lies well within the southern tropical zone, yet because it sits at 14,200 feet elevation, the average annual temperature is only 42° F.  For hiking and trekking, the elevation of a particular area determines what type of clothing will be worn, how long food will be cooked (on overnight treks), and how intense the solar radiation will be.

Humans are affected greatly by high altitude and high elevation.  As the altitude above sea level increases, the atmospheric pressure decreases, and every breath of air contains fewer and fewer molecules of oxygen.  One must therefore work harder to obtain oxygen by breathing faster and deeper.  As a matter of interest, the boiling point of human blood occurs at approximately 62,000 feet (18,900 meters) elevation.  The International Society for Mountain Medicine (ISMM) breaks high altitude on the ground into three categories:

• High Altitude:  5,000 to 11,500 feet (1,500 to 3,500 meters)
• Very High Altitude:  11,500 to 18,000 feet (3,500 to 5,500 meters)
• Extreme Altitude:  Above 18,000 feet (5,500 meters)

Since altitude-related illnesses don't typically occur below 8,000 feet, there is not much concern for activities in this range.  Higher up, however, normal physiologic changes occur in every person who attains a certain "threshold altitude."  This "threshold altitude" varies greatly depending on the person, their health condition, and the elevation at which they live at.  For a person who's lived most of his life at 4,500 feet elevation, 12,000 feet seems to be my threshold for noticing the altitude when hiking.  Below is a table I have compiled that indicates the varying average pressures and temperatures at different altitudes from sea level.

Note:  While sources I researched put the start of the "Death Zone" anywhere from 7,000 to 8,000 meters, I went with an average of 7,500 meters (24,606 feet).

The most common type of altitude-related illness is Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), which is a mild form of altitude sickness.  It occurs when the body hasn't had sufficient time to acclimatize to higher altitude, and may not become noticeable until you have been at the higher altitude for several hours.  The faster you climb to high altitudes, the more likely you are to get AMS.  Symptoms may include the following:

• Difficulty sleeping
• Dizziness or light-headedness
• Fatigue or weakness
• Headache
• Loss of appetite, nausea, or vomiting
• Rapid pulse
• Shortness of breath with exertion

AMS can eventually progress to High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE), which are both life-threatening.  The best prevention of any altitude-related illness is to ascend to higher altitudes slowly (no more than 2,000 feet of gain per day above 8,000 feet) and to descend to lower altitudes whenever altitude sickness symptoms appear.

Dromedary Peak (Lake Blanche Extension)

Dromedary Peak is the rounded hump to the right (west) of Lake Blanche that looks similar to the single-hump of a dromedary camel – hence its name.  During seasons of heavy precipitation, it can be covered with snow into the summer months.  While this peak isn't as popular of a climb as some of the other nearby peaks, it provides a commanding view of the surrounding landscape.  A visual route to the summit of Dromedary Peak can be mapped out from a smooth-rock overlook near the west end of Lake Blanche.  This is also a good spot to view all three lakes in this glacial basin (Blanche, Florence, and Lillian).

The rounded hump of Dromedary Peak
as seen from Lake Blanche

To begin the route to Dromedary Peak, you can either cross the dam on the west end of Lake Blanche, or cross further downstream just above Lake Florence if the water flow is low enough to safely do so.  Once the stream is crossed, continue southward from this point and then veer to the right (west) around the south end of Lake Lillian.  Work your way westward towards the low point on the ridge to the right (north) of Dromedary Peak.  The climb becomes steep once you enter a small cirque area north of the peak, and begin the tedious ascent up a gully to gain the 10,000-foot "low" point.  As you near the ridgeline, you encounter some inclining rock slabs that must be crossed, and care must be taken not to slip in this area.  Upon reaching the ridge, you have a clear view into Broads Fork Canyon and to the peaks that loom to the south and west.  The spine of the ridge you're on rises to Dromedary while Sunrise Peak (referred to as O'Sullivan Peak on most maps) sits just off to the right (west).  Off to the west-southwest sits the Broads Fork Twin Peaks, which are the highest points overlooking the Salt Lake Valley.  Continuing southward along the ridgeline, the next 600 feet of elevation gain is basically a boulder hop.  As you get closer to the summit, veer to the left (east) slope of the peak where there is less exposure.  The final obstacle before reaching the 11,107-foot summit of Dromedary Peak is a cliff band perhaps 20 to 30 feet high.  For the determined soul, the best way over this cliff band is to look for fissures and ledges where you can wedge your hands and feet into and pull yourself up.  Once on the summit, spectacular views unfold before you in all directions.  Distance from the north shore of Lake Blanche is approximately 1.7 miles one-way (4.7 miles from the Mill B Trailhead) with an elevation gain of 2,230 feet (4,900 feet from the trailhead). 

Hat marks the summit of Dromedary Peak
with Salt Lake Valley in the background

Lakes Lillian, Florence, and Blanche
taken near the summit of Dromedary Peak